Driveline, Axles & Brakes Procedures

This page lists 119 maintenance procedures for driveline, axles & brakes, drawn from HIT Srl's internal procedure library extracted from manufacturer service manuals.

HIT Srl supplies driveline, axle and brake spare parts for this class of machine.

General guidance only — always follow the operation and maintenance manual for your specific machine.

Drive Axle

• What is the correct sequence to replace the drive axle?

  1. Park the machine with blocks behind the steering wheels.
  2. Stop the engine and turn the starter key to position I.
  3. Depressurise the hydraulic system.
  4. Turn the starter key to position 0 and cut the main current.
  5. Insert suitable support between the steering axle and the frame on both sides.
  6. Undo the hydraulic hoses from the distribution block, plugging all unions at once to protect the hydraulic system from contamination.
  7. Remove the cover over the parking brake.
  8. Undo the locknut and tighten the screw to compress the brake spring, until the brake pads come loose from the brake discs; put the cover back over the parking brake.
  9. Undo the hydraulic hose and unplug the switch from the parking brake, plugging all unions at once to protect the hydraulic system from contamination.
  10. Undo the propeller shaft from the drive axle and fix it in place, as there is a risk it would otherwise be pulled apart.
  11. Connect lifting equipment to the lifting lugs on the mast in a secure manner and lift the machine so the drive wheels are lifted from the ground.
  12. Remove the drive wheels from the drive axle.
  13. Block up the drive axle under the hubs.
  14. Undo the screws which fix the drive axle to the frame.
  15. Lift the machine up so that the frame is lifted away from the axle.
  16. Lift out the drive axle.
  17. Transfer the equipment from the old axle to the new axle.
  18. Clean the mating surfaces on the drive axle and frame, and the mating surfaces for the washers underneath the drive axle.
  19. Lift the drive axle in under the frame.
  20. Lower the frame down onto the drive axle, checking that the guides fit and that the drive axle is centred in the frame.
  21. Fit the new screws which fix the drive axle to the frame, after checking that the threads are not damaged and that all dirt is removed.
  22. Tighten all nuts in number order to give metal contact between the drive axle and the chassis; continue tightening all nuts in number order to half torque (325 Nm, oil); finish by tightening all nuts in number order to full torque (650 Nm, oil), and re-tighten the attaching bolts after 50 hours operating time.
  23. Rust proof the new screws with suitable paint.
  24. Connect the hydraulic hoses to the distribution block.
  25. Connect the hydraulic hose and the cable for the switch to the parking brake, and adjust the parking brake.
  26. Connect the propeller shaft to the drive axle, torquing the bolts to 98 Nm, and re-tighten the attaching bolts after 50 hours operating time.
  27. Check the oil level in the drive axle.
  28. Start the machine and bleed the brakes.
  29. Check carefully that no leakage occurs.

  Notes:

  • The drive axle and the machine are very heavy; risk of pinch injury. It is not permissible to go under a machine which has been lifted by a jack etc.
  • The drive axle can start to roll away; pinch risk. Make sure that the drive axle does not roll away when not under control.

• How often should the drive axle hub and differential oil be checked or changed?

  Periodicity: Perform a daily sight check for oil leaks; check the oil level in the hubs and differential housing every 100 hours; change the oil every 1500 hours.

  1. Make a daily sight check to see there are no oil leaks on the outer part of the axle.
  2. Check the oil level in the hubs and differential housing every 100 hours.
  3. Change the oil in the hubs and differential housing every 1500 hours.

  Notes:

  • Before starting inspection, make sure the diesel engine is off, the disconnecting switch is disengaged, and the machine is stable and braked.
  • If the machine is lifted with hydraulic jacks for maintenance, place wedges under the rear axle wheels and further supports under the machine's support points.
  • Before beginning work, including wheel removal, completely deflate the tyres; never stand directly in front of a tyre when deflating or inflating it.

• What checks should be performed on the drive axle attachment?

  1. Check the drive axle's attachment to the frame for corrosion on structural elements such as attaching bolts.
  2. Check-tighten the drive axle's attaching bolts to 2350 Nm.
  3. Check-tighten the wheel nuts to 400 Nm.
  4. Check the bolted joint to the parking brake caliper's attaching plate and brake disc.
  5. Check that the drive axle seals tight.
  6. Check the oil level in the drive axle and hub reductions.

• What is the correct sequence to change the drive axle oil (hubs and differential)?

  1. Position the machine so the drain plug on each drive wheel is lowest vertically; for one wheel, move the machine forward or backward, for the other, lift the wheel off the ground and rotate it into position.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Remove the drain plug on both wheel hubs, also removing the level and filler plug to facilitate draining; drain both sides separately.
  4. Remove the drain plug in the drive axle (at the bottom), also removing the level and filler plug to facilitate draining.
  5. Clean the drive axle's breather while the oil is draining.
  6. Fit the drain plugs.
  7. Fill oil in the hubs until the level is flush with the level and filler hole.
  8. Fit the level and filler plug.
  9. Fill oil in the differential until the level is flush with the level and filler hole.
  10. Fit the level and filler plug.
  11. Turn on the main electric power.
  12. Check the oil in the drive axle after a short test drive.

  Note: The oil is very viscous; fill slowly and check the level in stages so the oil has time to settle.

• What is the correct sequence to change the drive axle oil?

  1. Drive the machine forward until the oil drain plug on one of the wheel hub reductions is at its lowest point of travel.
  2. Remove the oil plug and drain the oil, then refit the plug.
  3. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.
  4. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the differential and drain the oil, then refit and tighten the drain plug.
  5. Fill each hub reduction with fresh oil through the filler plug until the level indicator is horizontal, then refit and tighten the filler plug to the specified volume.
  6. Remove the level plug from the differential and fill the differential with oil to the specified volume, then refit and tighten the level plug.
  7. Check that the oil level is up to the level holes, topping up as necessary.

  Note: To ensure the wheel ends of planetary axles with a common wheel end/housing bowl oil level are properly lubricated, fill each wheel end directly with oil before the machine is put back into operation; do not fill the axle through the drive unit or housing bowl only.

• What is the correct sequence to check the drive axle?

  1. Check the drive axle's attachment to the frame for corrosion on structural elements such as the attaching bolts.
  2. Check and tighten the drive axle's attaching bolts to 1530 Nm.
  3. Check and tighten the wheel nuts to 650 Nm.
  4. Check the bolted joint to the parking brake caliper's attaching plate and brake disc.
  5. Check that the drive axle seals tightly.
  6. Check the oil level in the drive axle and the hub reductions.

• What is the correct sequence to change the drive axle oil (hubs and differential)?

  1. Position the machine so the hub reductions' drain plugs at the wheels are in the lowest position on both drive wheels, moving the machine or lifting and rotating a wheel as needed.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Position a receptacle by each hub, with a piece of sheet metal in the wheel rim to lead oil into the receptacle.
  4. Remove the drain plugs and the level/filling plugs for the hubs on both sides, draining each side separately.
  5. Position a receptacle under the differential and remove its drain plug and level/filling plug.
  6. Clean the drive axle's breather while the oil is draining.
  7. Install the drain plugs on the hubs and the differential, checking that the seals are intact, clean and correctly positioned.
  8. Fill oil in the hubs slowly until the level is flush with the filling and level holes, checking the level in stages so it has time to settle.
  9. Install the hubs' level and filler plugs, checking that the seals are intact, clean and correctly positioned.
  10. Fill oil in the differential until the level is flush with the filler and level hole.
  11. Install the level and filler plug on the differential, checking that the seal is intact, clean and correctly positioned.
  12. Remove the receptacle.
  13. Turn on the system voltage and test-drive the machine.
  14. Check the oil level in the drive axle after the short test-drive.

• What is the correct sequence to check the drive axle mounting bolts?

  1. Check the tightness of the eight tie-rods that fasten the drive axle to the frame, to the specified torque (2000 Nm).

  Note: Park the machine on flat, compact ground and switch off the engine before carrying out any maintenance.

• What is the correct sequence to check the differential oil level?

  1. Check the oil level with the machine on level ground, the engine off, and after the oil has cooled and settled.
  2. The level is correct when oil flows out of the level-plug hole.
  3. If needed, top up with new oil through the filler-plug hole.
  4. Check that the breather is clean and functioning properly (also check and clean the parking brake cylinder's breather).

• What is the correct sequence to change the differential oil?

  The first replacement on a new machine must be carried out after the first 100 operating hours.

  1. Drain the oil into a suitable container by unscrewing the drain plug and the filler plug, letting the oil drain completely and checking for metal particle residue.
  2. Thoroughly wash the inside of the casing with kerosene, then let it drain well before introducing new oil.
  3. Check the drain plug for metal residue and refit it.
  4. Fill with new oil through the filler-plug hole until it overflows.
  5. Refit the filler plug.
  6. Recheck the level (via the level-plug hole) after a test run, and verify there are no oil leaks.

  Note: The replacement must be carried out with the engine off.

• What is the correct sequence to check the hub reduction oil level?

  1. Check the level with the machine on level ground, engine off, after the oil has cooled and settled.
  2. Position the engraved 'OIL' level line horizontally.
  3. The level is correct when oil flows out of the level-plug hole with the mark horizontal.
  4. If needed, top up with new oil through the filler-plug hole.

• What is the correct sequence to change the hub reduction oil?

  1. Position the engraved 'OIL' level line horizontally, so the drain plug is at the lowest point.
  2. Drain the oil into a suitable container by unscrewing the drain plug and the filler plug, letting the oil drain completely and checking for metal particle residue.
  3. Thoroughly wash the inside of the casing with kerosene, then let it drain well before introducing new oil.
  4. Check the drain plug for metal residue and refit it.
  5. Fill with new oil through the filler-plug hole until it overflows.
  6. Refit the filler plug.

  Note: The replacement must be carried out with the engine off.

• Checking the tightening torques of the driveline/axle fasteners

  1. Do a full cleaning of the inspected area.
  2. Check every screw and nut of the relevant driveline/axle fastening points.
  3. Check visually for defects: loose screws or nuts, damage, cracks, deformations, corrosion.
  4. For screws without a nut, use tap testing: hit the screws lightly with a tap test hammer and listen to the sound (or use an analysis instrument). If a screw is damaged or the prestress is low, the sound is lower compared to an undamaged, sufficiently tight screw.
  5. Replace a defective screw or nut with a new one with all the characteristics of the original. Check tightening torques from the technical data chapter. Never retighten a loose screw or nut.

• Adjusting the hub bearings on a rigid planetary drive axle

  1. Measure the hub's rotational resistance to check the current preload.
  2. If the bearings show backlash or the measured resistance is below the normal range, adjust the bearings using the shims: to eliminate backlash, reduce the quantity of shims or use shims of a different thickness.
  3. Adjust the bearings until the measured rotational resistance falls within the specified normal range for the bearing condition (new or used).

  Note: The hubs turn on single-row tapered roller bearings, which must operate without backlash and with the correct preload.

Brakes – Driveline, Axles & Brakes

• What should be checked on the brake system during a scheduled safety inspection?

  Part of the safety checks a qualified mechanic should perform.

  Periodicity: during each scheduled maintenance interval or at least once a month

  1. Check brake controls for proper operation; make sure the foot-operated treadle in the cab is operating smoothly and is not damaged.
  2. Visually inspect the brake drums, brake chambers, and slack adjusters; check for loose, missing or broken components, and for cracks and other signs of severe wear.
  3. Listen for air leaks in the cab and underneath the chassis; check air pressure regularly using the dash-mounted gauge; be alert for any sudden drops in pressure while operating and after the engine is shut off (a minimum air pressure of 70 P.S.I. / 4.83 bar is required to operate).
  4. Visually check hoses and pneumatic lines for damage and chafing.
  5. Check the operation of both the service and parking brake systems; be alert for any reduction in braking performance or unusual noises while braking.

  Note: Do not operate the vehicle until the brake system has been thoroughly inspected; failure to do so could lead to serious injury or death.

• What is the correct sequence to manually release (cage) the tractor's spring parking brakes with an external caging tool?

  Used when air pressure cannot be recharged and the vehicle must be moved; applies to the standard brake chambers used on most terminal tractors of this type with an external-mounted caging tool.

  1. Shut the engine off and remove the key.
  2. Block all wheels front and rear to prevent the vehicle from rolling forward and backward.
  3. Determine whether the chamber has an internal or external caging tool; proceed with an external-mounted tool.
  4. Remove the access plug from the brake canister.
  5. Insert the caging tool into the access hole, "T" end first.
  6. Turn the caging tool 1/4 turn to engage with the slot on the pressure plate.
  7. Try to pull the caging tool out; it should not pull out — if it does, repeat the previous two steps.
  8. Thread the nut and washer down onto the threaded end of the caging tool all the way to the canister.
  9. Tighten the nut until the threaded portion of the release tool extends approximately 3 inches (76.2 mm) out of the nut (4 inches / 101.6 mm for Type 3036 and 3636 chambers).

  Notes:

  • Never manually release (cage) the spring brakes before the wheels are properly blocked.
  • Never use an impact wrench to tighten the nut onto the release bolt.
  • Never exceed the specified extension lengths and never exceed 50 ft. lbs. (67.79 N•m) of torque on the release nut, or the chamber may be damaged.

• What should be done if the low air pressure warning light and buzzer do not shut off after start-up?

  1. If the warning light and buzzer do not shut off at least 5 minutes after start-up, shut the engine down and determine why the air system is not charging.

  Note: If the Low Air indicator light or buzzer indicates a loss of air pressure while driving, the vehicle should be stopped immediately and not operated until the air system is repaired.

• What rules must be followed when parking a terminal tractor with an automatic transmission?

  The powershift transmission with torque converter does not have a PARK position like an automobile transmission.

  1. Always apply the parking brake.
  2. Never park the vehicle by leaving it in gear; always place the transmission shifter selector in the "Neutral" position.
  3. Never park a tractor-trailer combination unless the trailer parking brakes are operational and applied.

  Note: Failure to observe these rules when parking the vehicle may lead to death or serious injury.

• What is the correct sequence to test an air brake system for leak-down during preventative maintenance?

  1. Disconnect the gladhands from the trailer.
  2. Run the engine at fast idle and allow air pressure to stabilize at 120 P.S.I. for at least 1 minute.
  3. Shut off the engine and observe the dash gauge(s) for 2 minutes.
  4. Confirm the drop in pressure does not exceed 2 P.S.I. (0.137 bar) over the 2-minute period.

• Which brake disc cracks are acceptable, and which mean immediate replacement?

  1. Formation of cracks: acceptable.
  2. Radial cracks: not acceptable.
  3. Surface not uniform under 1 mm: acceptable.
  4. Continuous cracks: not acceptable.

• What is the correct sequence to adjust the parking brake caliper on this class of front drive axle?

  Needed at initial installation or as a result of brake pad or disc material wear.

  1. Loosen the lock nut of the adjustment screw and, with hydraulic pressure applied, turn the adjustment screw clockwise until the pads are in positive contact with the brake disc.
  2. Turn the adjustment screw, tightening the lock nut.
  3. Lock the adjustment screw by tightening the lock nut.

• How can the parking brake be released manually in an emergency if hydraulic pressure is lost?

  1. Loosen the lock nut of the adjustment screw.
  2. Turn the adjustment screw anticlockwise until the brake is free.

  Note: After this operation, the vehicle must only be towed and must not be driven under its own power.

• What brake-system operations are checked during the 500-hour Type A preventive maintenance service?

  There are four preventive maintenance cards (A, B, C, D) covering the machine's complete maintenance plan, on a 500-hour frequency, cycling in the order B-A-B-C-B-A-B-C-B-D before repeating. Service times assume normal operating conditions and may vary with type of use, road surface, and environment.

  1. Change the brake oil filter (supply line).
  2. Change the brake oil filter (return line).
  3. Check the brake oil level.
  4. Check for oil leaks from pipes, fittings and components of the brake system.
  5. Check the accumulator pressure condition.
  6. Check disc brake pad wear.
  7. Clean the brake oil radiator.
  8. Check for oil leaks from fittings and components.
  9. Check the parking brake's operation.
  10. Check the parking brake warning lamp and its safety function.

  Note: Maintenance must be carried out only by qualified, authorised personnel, working in conditions of maximum safety.

Wheels Tires & rims

• What should be checked on the tyres during the pre-operational inspection?

  1. Carry out a sight check of the pressure, the tread and the sides of the tyres.
  2. In case of faults, the tyre must be carefully inspected by maintenance personnel before being used.
  3. Make sure the rim and hub cap are not deformed.

  Note: A dislodged locking ring or exploding tyre can be deadly to anyone close to the tyre or in the path of the dislodged, flying ring; only properly trained persons are to service the tyres.

• What is the correct sequence to safely inflate a tyre on this class of machine?

  1. Ask all personnel to leave the area.
  2. Fit the self-locking connector on the tyre valve.
  3. Take up a position at the side of the wheel, at a distance of at least 2 metres from the wheel centre.
  4. Cautiously start to inflate the tyre, frequently checking the pressure does not exceed the value indicated on the plate.
  5. When the pressure is correct, disconnect the self-locking connector and screw the valve cap back on.

  Note: Absolutely avoid standing directly in front of the wheel; if the tyre bursts in that position, this would cause serious injury or death.

• What materials are needed to fit a new tyre, and what are the first stages of the fitting procedure?

  Only qualified personnel must be assigned to tyre fitting and servicing operations.

  1. Materials required: tyre; wheel complete with snap ring; two tyre levers; hammer; tyre fitting paste; tubeless valve for earth moving machinery; triangular gasket; three self-locking pliers with parallel jaws.
  2. First stage: place the wheel on three blocks so it is approx. 10 cm off the floor and fit the valve; grease the parts of the wheel in contact with the tyre and the seat of the triangular gasket, both on the wheel and the tapered ring; grease the tyre beads.
  3. Second stage: fit the tyre to the basic wheel and then to the tapered ring; with the tyre levers, fit the rubber triangular gasket in its seats.
  4. Third stage: using the tyre levers, lower the tapered ring so the triangular gasket is completely exposed, and apply grease in the indicated area.
  5. Fourth stage: firmly apply the three pliers at regular intervals to seat the snap ring against the wheel, then open the air supply to inflate the tyre until the pliers are ejected or the tapered ring closes the snap ring.
  6. Fifth stage: using a hammer, tap the snap ring to seat it correctly, check it is tight against the wheel, then proceed with final inflation.

  Note: For safety reasons, the tyre must be contained within a safety cage during inflation.

• What is the correct periodic maintenance procedure for wheels and tyres?

  Periodicity: at least once a year; also at each tyre change and at least every 12 months for the wheel check

  1. Deflate the tyre.
  2. Remove the tyre from the wheel.
  3. Brush the seats (tyre beads and ring seat).
  4. Inspect the wheel for signs of wear.
  5. Subject the wheel to magnetoscopic inspection at the snap ring seat, the tyre bead seat on the basic wheel, and the tyre bead seat on the tapered ring.

  Notes:

  • Wheels and tyres should be serviced at least once a year.
  • Service operations must be assigned to qualified personnel only.
  • Do not carry out any welding on the wheel without express authorisation.
  • Replace worn parts with original replacement parts only.
  • The wheel must be checked at each tyre change and at least once every 12 months.

  Confirmed across independent manufacturers’ manuals.

• What is the correct sequence to remove a tyre from its wheel?

  1. Undo the bolts and separate the tyre from the machine.
  2. Remove the snap ring using a lever, then remove the triangular rubber gasket.
  3. Separate the rear part of the basic wheel using a spike or a semi-automatic machine.
  4. Withdraw the wheel from the tyre.
  5. Separate the tapered ring from the tyre using a spike or a semi-automatic machine.

  Note: Always check that the tyre is fully deflated before carrying out any operations on the tyre or wheel.

  Confirmed across independent manufacturers’ manuals.

• What maintenance should be performed on a rim when a tyre is removed?

  1. Remove the wheel from the vehicle and remove the tyre; clean the wheel carefully, particularly the mating surfaces.
  2. Examine the rim along its entire circumference; examine the wheel disc, paying particular attention to the area where it is secured to the hub.
  3. Check for any signs of wear or buckling, rust, breakages or cracks.
  4. Check that all surfaces, particularly those in contact with the tyre or the vehicle, are sufficiently protected against corrosion; repaint if necessary after removing any surface rust and applying a suitable primer, taking care not to apply too great a paint thickness on the mating surfaces.

  Notes:

  • Rims and centres must never be repaired by welding or by "patching" areas where material is lacking.
  • When replacing entire wheels or the removable rings of composite rims, make sure the new parts are perfectly interchangeable with the old ones in size, type and section.

• How should a rim be inspected at each tyre change?

  1. Remove the tyre and disassemble all the rim components.
  2. Clean thoroughly all the areas to be examined.
  3. Carry out a careful visual inspection; in cases of doubt, use a penetrating dye test to discover any cracks.
  4. Inspect all component parts of the rim for signs of wear, dents or other damage.

  Notes:

  • Replace any parts found to be damaged.
  • Always use a new O-ring seal before reassembly.
  • Clean any areas of rust with a wire brush and treat with an anti-rust compound.

• What is checked on the tyres and rims during the 500-hour Type A preventive maintenance service?

  There are four preventive maintenance cards (A, B, C, D) covering the machine's complete maintenance plan, on a 500-hour frequency, cycling in the order B-A-B-C-B-A-B-C-B-D before repeating. Service times assume normal operating conditions and may vary with type of use, road surface, and environment.

  1. Visually check the condition of the rims and tyres.

  Note: Maintenance must be carried out only by qualified, authorised personnel, working in conditions of maximum safety.

Parking Brake

• What is the correct sequence to replace the parking brake valve?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic system.
  3. Unplug the connector from the valve.
  4. Remove the nut securing the spool.
  5. Remove the spool from the valve.
  6. Remove the valve from the valve block.
  7. Replace the valve.
  8. Fit in reverse order.
  9. Turn on the main electric power and start the engine; run the engine at idling speed.
  10. Test the parking brake a couple of times.

• What is the correct sequence to check that the parking brake valve applies and releases the parking brake correctly?

  1. Start the engine and run it at idle until the warning lamp for brake pressure goes out and the accumulator charging valve changes to cooling.
  2. Switch off the engine and turn the starter key to position I.
  3. Release the parking brake with the parking brake switch and check that the parking brake's brake caliper releases and is able to move.
  4. Activate the parking brake with the parking brake switch and check that the parking brake's brake caliper is applied.

  Notes:

  • As long as there is oil pressure in the accumulator system, it is possible to disable the parking brake with the parking brake switch when the engine is off.
  • The machine may start to roll when the parking brake is released; block the wheels so the machine cannot roll.

• What is the correct sequence to replace and adjust the parking brake unit?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic system.
  3. Unplug the connector from the switch.
  4. Detach the hydraulic hose from the parking brake unit, plugging the connection immediately to protect the hydraulic system from impurities.
  5. Remove the parking brake unit attaching bolts.
  6. Remove the parking brake unit.
  7. Transfer the connection adapter and the parking brake switch to the new parking brake unit.
  8. Fit the new parking brake unit.
  9. Connect the hydraulic hose to the parking brake unit, checking that the O-rings are intact and fitted correctly.
  10. Connect the connector to the parking brake switch.
  11. Turn on the main electric power and start the engine; run the engine at idling speed.
  12. Release the parking brake.
  13. Adjust the adjustment screw so that the brakes are applied.
  14. Back off the adjustment screw 0.5±0.1 mm.
  15. Tighten the lock nut, holding the adjustment screw still to avoid turning it as well.
  16. Refit the cover to the calliper.
  17. Test the parking brake a couple of times.
  18. Check that the hydraulic connections are sealed tightly.

• What is the correct sequence to replace the parking brake's normally-open switch?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic system.
  3. Unplug the connector from the switch.
  4. Remove the switch from the parking brake unit.
  5. Replace the switch.
  6. Fit in reverse order.

• What is the correct sequence for the parking brake's initial adjustment?

  1. Ensure that the spring cap is fully engaged in the housing.
  2. Loosen the parking brake.
  3. Turn the nut against the washer.
  4. Apply the parking brake.
  5. Turn the spring cap until the total clearance between the disc and the lining is 0.5 mm.
  6. Loosen the parking brake.
  7. Back up the nut and lock it with the locking pin; the brake is now ready for operation.

  Note: The spring cap has a clockwise thread and the stud has an anti-clockwise thread; never try to screw the spring cap in with the springs in compression, as the threads may be damaged.

• What is the correct sequence to compensate for parking brake lining wear?

  1. Apply pressure.
  2. Turn the nut against the washer.
  3. Release the pressure.
  4. Turn the spring cap until the total clearance between the disc and the linings is reduced to 0.5 mm.
  5. Apply pressure.
  6. Back up the nut and lock it with the locking pin; the brake is now operational again.

  Note: After emergency braking, the brake pads have to be checked and replaced if necessary.

• What is the correct sequence to check and adjust the parking brake unit?

  1. Start the engine and run up hydraulic pressure until the accumulators are fully charged and the accumulator charging valve switches to cooling.
  2. Turn off the engine and turn the start key to position I.
  3. Release the parking brake.
  4. Check that the parking brake caliper can move on the bracket.
  5. Check that the brake disc is clean from oil and dirt.
  6. Remove the cover from the brake caliper and check there is no oil inside it.
  7. Loosen the lock nut.
  8. Adjust the adjustment screw so the brakes are applied.
  9. Turn back the adjusting screw so the clearance between pad and disc becomes 0.5±0.1 mm.
  10. Tighten the lock nut, holding the adjustment screw still to avoid turning it as well.
  11. Refit the cover on the caliper.
  12. Check the function of the parking brake.

  Note: The machine may start to roll; block the wheels so it cannot roll when the parking brake is released.

  Confirmed across independent manufacturers’ manuals.

• What is the correct sequence to change the parking brake pads?

  1. Put the machine in service position with the wheels blocked.
  2. Remove the cover from the brake caliper.
  3. Loosen the lock nut.
  4. Loosen the adjusting screw so the brake pads become loose.
  5. Remove the split pin and loosen the nut on the attaching bolt holding the parking brake caliper.
  6. Pull out the attaching bolt so the brake pads can be twisted out and removed (the bolt does not have to be fully removed).
  7. Remove the parking brake pads.
  8. Clean the brake disc with methylated spirit.
  9. Fit the new parking brake pads.
  10. Press back the attaching bolt.
  11. Fit the nut and a new split pin.
  12. Adjust the parking brake.

  Note: The machine may start to roll; block the wheels so it cannot roll when the parking brake is released.

• Checking and aligning the hoist brake on a rubber tyred gantry crane

  1. Check that the linkage of the brake works properly (for example, that there is no bending in the brake arms or top levers when the brake is releasing). Misalignment can also be recognized from uneven wear of the disc and the brake pad linings; in case of unevenly worn brake pad linings, the brake pads must be replaced before alignment.
  2. Remove the wedge.
  3. Release the brake spring completely by turning the adjustment nut counterclockwise.
  4. Remove the catch by unscrewing the fastening screw.
  5. Turn the reserve stroke adjustment nut counterclockwise to move the brake pads away from the disc.
  6. Loosen the brake mounting bolts.
  7. Rotate the brake spring adjustment nut clockwise until the upper edge of the torque indicator shows about 1/3 of the nominal braking torque (see the brake's type plate for the braking torque).
  8. Turn the reserve stroke adjustment nut clockwise to press the brake pads against the disc; the brake aligns itself to the brake disc.
  9. Check that the brake disc's edge exceeds the brake pads by 5 mm, measured from the outer edge of the brake pad (not from the brake pad carrier). If necessary, adjust by moving the brake.
  10. Check the brake alignment.
  11. Insert the wedge loosely and without force into the guide way.
  12. Reinstall the catch.
  13. Tighten the brake mounting bolts to a tightening torque of 655 N.m.
  14. Adjust the braking torque and the thruster's reserve stroke; these are covered by separate follow-up checks.

  Note: Immediate risk of crushing: always use the safety switch with a lock when servicing the hoist brake, since the safety switch prevents the hoist brake from releasing during service. Misalignment of the brake can cause weak contact pressure between brake pads and disc and lead to lowered braking torque, so it is important that the brake is correctly aligned. Turning the reserve stroke adjustment nut may damage the automatic wear compensator (AWC) if the catch is still in place.

• Checking and adjusting the air gap between hoist brake pads and brake disc

  1. Release the brake with the thruster.
  2. Check the air gap between the brake pads and brake disc.
  3. Remove the cover.
  4. Remove the adjusting screws and clean the threads of any adhesive agent.
  5. Tighten the adjusting screws evenly with a screwdriver until the air gap is zero, then loosen the screws one quarter rotation.
  6. Insert the wedge loosely and without force into the guide way.
  7. Actuate and release the brake several times until the wedge does not move further down.
  8. Check that the air gap is equal on both sides of the brake disc. If the air gap is too large on the stop side, turn both adjusting screws clockwise; if too large on the opposite side, turn both adjusting screws counterclockwise.

  Note: If the gaps are considerably unequal, adjustment is needed. "Stop side" means the side of the brake equipped with the wedge.

• Checking the reserve stroke of the hoist brake thruster

  1. Release the brake with the thruster.
  2. Measure the distance between the thruster frame and piston rod.
  3. Remove the catch by unscrewing the fastening screw.
  4. Adjust the distance to 155 mm with the adjustment nut.
  5. Apply the brake.
  6. Reinstall the catch, ensuring that the catch pin is within the catch.

  Note: Adjusting the reserve stroke may damage the automatic wear compensator (AWC) if the catch is in place during the procedure. The correct distance between the thruster frame and piston rod is 155 mm (+3/-1 mm); the lower edge of the cap has to be at the centre of the notch marked "10".

• Adjusting the parking brake caliper on a rigid planetary drive axle

  1. Loosen the caliper by unscrewing the mounting bolts.
  2. Remove the cover.
  3. Apply pressure to the caliper, between 95 and 200 bar.
  4. Tighten the adjustment bolt until the brake is clamped on the disc.
  5. Tighten the mounting bolts until they make contact with the rubber springs, then tighten a further 1 to 2 flats (0.4-0.8 mm).
  6. Once the bolts are adjusted, tighten the jam nuts against the mounting surface to the specified torque.
  7. Adjust the running clearance to 0.5-0.8 mm with the adjustment bolt.
  8. Use the second adjustment bolt to even up the running clearance on each side of the disc.
  9. Mount the cover.

  Note: Adjust the caliper whenever the parking brake becomes inefficient.

• Replacing the thruster on a quayside container crane's motor brake

  1. Take out the split pin from the upper and lower shaft on the thruster.
  2. Pull out the pin roll on the thruster end, and lay the thruster aside firmly.
  3. Pull out the pin roll on the support.
  4. Suspend the thruster away.
  5. Install a new thruster.

  Note: The thruster's internal structure is complex; do not attempt to repair it on site. If it is faulty, remove the whole thruster and send it to a professional for repair.

• Replacing the spring on a quayside container crane's motor brake

  1. Screw the torque adjustable screw bolt onto the nut.
  2. Turn the torque adjustable screw bolt clockwise, making sure it does not hold back the dummy plate under the tube.
  3. Pull out the dummy plate under the spring tube with an appropriate hammer.
  4. Turn the torque adjustable screw bolt counterclockwise until the spring force disappears completely, then remove the nuts on the bolt's upper end.
  5. Pull out the bolt, spring support and spring, and install a new spring.

• Replacing the automatic compensating device on a quayside container crane's motor brake

  1. Remove the compensating plate.
  2. Remove the split pin on the shaft, and loosen the holding screw on the pin roll.
  3. Pull out the compensating screw bolt from the cross square tube.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the screw bolt.
  5. Pull out the screw shaft.
  6. Pull out the pin roll.
  7. Pull out the automatic compensating device and set-square assembly from the brake arm.
  8. Remove the set square, take out the automatic compensating device, and install a new one.

• Replacing the brake gasket on a quayside container crane's motor brake

  1. Loosen the brake release device manually, revolving the adjustable nut sufficiently.
  2. Loosen the gasket binding bolt.
  3. Move the gasket level to break it away from the key, then pull it out.
  4. Align and install a new gasket.

• Replacing the hydraulic cylinder on a quayside container crane's drum brake

  1. Loosen the bolts on the shaft end plate, and remove the plate.
  2. Pull out the four pin rolls between the hydraulic cylinder and brake arm, one by one.
  3. Suspend the cylinder to a safe place.
  4. Install a new cylinder.

• Replacing the pedestal spring on a quayside container crane's drum brake

  1. Loosen the two screws on the spring.
  2. Pull out the old pedestal spring, install a new one, and realign it.

• Replacing the brake gasket on a quayside container crane's drum brake without removing the whole brake

  1. Loosen the holding screw on the pedestal pin.
  2. Suspend the pedestal out.
  3. Move the pedestal to a safer place.
  4. Loosen the holding nuts on the gasket.
  5. Pull out the old gasket, and install a new one.

  Note: It generally is not necessary to remove the whole drum brake for this, although removing it is a safer and more effective way to work.

Propeller Shaft

• What is the correct sequence to replace the propeller shaft?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Remove the propeller shaft's attaching bolts.
  3. Remove the propeller shaft.
  4. Clean the contact surfaces (cross-toothed) on the drive axle and gearbox.
  5. Fit the propeller shaft attaching bolts, torqued to 98 Nm (oil).
  6. Re-tighten the attaching bolts after 50 hours operating time.

• What checks and lubrication should be performed on the propeller shaft at scheduled intervals?

  Periodicity: After 50h: check-tighten attaching bolts. After 500h: clean and check universal joint clearance. After 1000h: grease universal joints and check-tighten attaching bolts again.

  1. After 50 hours, check-tighten the attaching bolts at the mountings to the drive axle and transmission, torqued to 200 Nm.
  2. After 500 hours, clean the propeller shaft and check the clearance in the universal joints.
  3. After 1000 hours, grease the universal joints with an NLGI EP2 universal grease, and check-tighten the attaching bolts at the mountings to the drive axle and transmission, torqued to 200 Nm.

• What is the correct periodic check for the propeller shaft?

  Periodicity: After 50 hours: check and tighten the mounting bolts at the drive axle and transmission to 98 Nm. After 500 hours: clean and check clearance in the universal joints. After 1000 hours: grease the universal joints and check and tighten the mounting bolts to 98 Nm.

  1. After 50 hours, check and tighten the retaining bolts at the mountings for the drive axle and transmission to 98 Nm.
  2. After 500 hours, clean the propeller shaft and check the clearance in the universal joints.
  3. After 1000 hours, grease the universal joints with universal grease and check and tighten the mounting retaining bolts to 98 Nm.

• What is the correct sequence to lubricate and check the propeller shaft?

  Periodicity: The first check must be carried out after the first 250 operating hours.

  1. Inject grease with a manual pump (never a high-pressure greasing pump) into the pressure fittings of the universal joints (and the sliding sleeve if fitted); full filling is indicated by grease coming out.
  2. Check the tightness of the bolts fastening the propeller shaft to the drive axle and to the transmission, to the specified torque (100 Nm).

  Notes:

  • Always switch off the engine before working on the propeller shaft.
  • On machines with automatic greasing, the propeller shaft must still be greased manually.

• What propeller-shaft operations are checked during the 500-hour Type A preventive maintenance service?

  There are four preventive maintenance cards (A, B, C, D) covering the machine's complete maintenance plan, on a 500-hour frequency, cycling in the order B-A-B-C-B-A-B-C-B-D before repeating. Service times assume normal operating conditions and may vary with type of use, road surface, and environment.

  1. Grease the propeller shaft.
  2. Tighten the propeller shaft's bolted joints.

  Note: Maintenance must be carried out only by qualified, authorised personnel, working in conditions of maximum safety.

Drive Axle & differential

• When must the driver-controlled differential lock never be engaged?

  1. The differential must not be engaged when travelling at higher speeds.
  2. The differential must not be engaged when travelling down steep grades with limited traction.

  Note: When the differential is fully locked, the vehicle will have reduced steering capability; not observing these conditions can result in loss of vehicle control, damage to components, serious injury or death.

• What safety precautions must be observed before servicing a drive axle?

  1. Before starting the inspection, make sure the diesel engine is off, the disconnecting switch is disengaged and the machine is stable and braked.
  2. If the machine is lifted with hydraulic jacks for maintenance, place wedges under the wheels of the rear axle and further supports under the machine support points.
  3. Before beginning work, including wheel removal, completely deflate the tyres; never stand directly in front of the tyre when deflating or inflating.
  4. To drain oil from the hubs or differential housing, use a container large enough to hold the quantity of oil to be drained.

• What should be checked daily versus every 100 or 1000 hours on a drive axle?

  Periodicity: sight check daily; oil level every 100h; oil change every 1000h

  1. Daily: sight check for oil leaks on the outer part of the axle.
  2. Every 100 hours: check the level of oil in the hubs and differential housing.
  3. Every 1000 hours: replace the oil in the hubs and differential housing.

• What drive-axle and differential operations are checked during the 500-hour Type A preventive maintenance service?

  There are four preventive maintenance cards (A, B, C, D) covering the machine's complete maintenance plan, on a 500-hour frequency, cycling in the order B-A-B-C-B-A-B-C-B-D before repeating. Service times assume normal operating conditions and may vary with type of use, road surface, and environment.

  1. Change the differential oil.
  2. Change the hub oil.
  3. Clean the drive axle's breather.
  4. Tighten the drive axle's bolted joints.

  Note: Maintenance must be carried out only by qualified, authorised personnel, working in conditions of maximum safety.

Brake Pedal

• What is the correct sequence to replace the brake pedal?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic system.
  3. Secure the brake valve and the steering valve on the cab's underside.
  4. Screw down the set screw for the brake pedal all the way to facilitate access.
  5. Detach the steering valve from the pedal bracket by removing the steering valve's attaching bolts and pulling the valve down slightly so the steering shaft releases from the steering valve.
  6. Detach the brake valve from the brake pedal by removing the brake valve attaching bolts securing the brake valve to the cab floor.
  7. Remove the four screws securing the bracket to the cab floor.
  8. Undo the splint pins and drive the shaft out.
  9. Replace the brake pedal.
  10. Fit in reverse order.

• What checks and adjustments should be made on the brake pedal?

  1. Clean the floor around the brake pedal and check that nothing is obstructing its movement.
  2. Check that the brake pedal springs back properly and that the clearance between the brake pedal and the brake valve is 1-1.5 mm; if necessary, adjust the brake pedal stop screw to give the correct clearance.
  3. Check that the pedal moves easily.
  4. Lubricate the pedal hinge with an NLGI EP2 grade multi-purpose grease.
  5. Check that the rubber pad on the brake pedal is intact and that the pattern is not worn away; replace as necessary.

• What checks and adjustments should be made on the brake pedal?

  1. Clean the floor around the brake pedal and check that nothing blocks its movement.
  2. Check that the brake pedal springs back sufficiently and that the clearance between the pedal and brake valve is 1-1.5 mm, adjusting the set screw if needed.
  3. Check that the pedal's travel is smooth.
  4. Grease the pedal hinges with an NLGI EP2 universal grease.
  5. Check that the rubber on the pedal is intact and the tread pattern is not worn out, replacing it if necessary.

• What is the correct sequence to check and adjust the brake pedal?

  1. Clean the floor around the brake pedal and check that nothing blocks its movement.
  2. Check that the brake pedal returns all the way and that the clearance between the brake pedal and brake valve is 1-1.5 mm, adjusting the pedal's stop bolt if needed.
  3. Check that the pedal's travel is smooth.
  4. Grease the pedal hinges with EP2 universal grease.
  5. Check that the rubber on the pedal is intact and the tread pattern is not worn out, changing it when needed.

Transmission & converter

• How and how often should transmission oil level be checked?

  Periodicity: every day

  1. Check the oil level every day, at a temperature between 82-93°C with the motor running at low revs.
  2. The oil level should always be at the FULL reference mark.

• How often should transmission oil level be checked, and the filter and oil be changed?

  Periodicity: oil level: daily; filter: every 500 hours; oil: every 1500 hours

  1. Check the oil level daily to ensure it is on the FULL mark.
  2. Change the oil filter every 500 hours.
  3. Change the oil every 1500 hours.

  Notes:

  • Before starting inspection, make sure the diesel engine is off, the power switch is disengaged and the machine is stable and braked.
  • Allow the transmission to cool before performing any maintenance jobs.

• What gearbox operations are checked during the 500-hour Type A preventive maintenance service?

  There are four preventive maintenance cards (A, B, C, D) covering the machine's complete maintenance plan, on a 500-hour frequency, cycling in the order B-A-B-C-B-A-B-C-B-D before repeating. Service times assume normal operating conditions and may vary with type of use, road surface, and environment.

  1. Change the gearbox oil filters.
  2. General greasing.
  3. Check the gearbox oil level.
  4. Check for oil leaks from the gearbox's fittings and components.

  Note: Maintenance must be carried out only by qualified, authorised personnel, working in conditions of maximum safety.

• Performing the converter stall test on a powershift transmission

  1. Put the vehicle against a solid barrier, such as a wall, and/or apply the parking brake and block the wheels.
  2. Put the directional control lever in forward (or reverse, as applicable).
  3. Select the highest speed.
  4. With the engine running, slowly increase engine speed to approximately half throttle and hold until the transmission (converter outlet) oil temperature reaches the operating range, respecting the 30-second stall / 15-second neutral cycle.

  Note: The transmission fluid must be at operating temperature (82-93 degrees C / 180-200 degrees F) to obtain correct fluid level and pressure readings; to raise the oil temperature, either operate the vehicle or run the engine with the converter at stall. Be careful that the vehicle does not move unexpectedly when operating the engine and converter at stall RPM. Do not operate the converter at stall condition for longer than 30 seconds at a time: shift to neutral for 15 seconds and repeat the procedure until the desired temperature is reached. Excessive temperature (120 degrees C / 250 degrees F maximum) will cause damage to the transmission clutches, fluid, converter and seals.

Brake Valve

• What is the correct sequence to check the brake valve's pressure and sealing?

  1. Operate and warm up the machine so the hydraulic oil reaches at least 50°C operating temperature.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Connect a pressure gauge (0-25 MPa) to the measuring outlet for brake pressure on the distribution block.
  4. Start the machine and run it at idling speed until the accumulator is charged and the accumulator charging valve changes to cooling.
  5. Press the pedal to the bottom and read off the pressure, comparing it with the pressure plate on the left-hand front mudguard.
  6. Turn off the engine.
  7. Depress the pedal fully and keep it pressed down, checking the pressure; it must correspond with the value specified on the pressure plate and must not decrease from this value for 15 seconds.
  8. Release the pedal; the brake pressure must decrease to 0 MPa immediately. If it does not, adjust the pedal's zero position with the screw under the pedal; if the pedal is correctly adjusted and the pressure still does not fall to 0 MPa, replace the brake valve.
  9. Remove the pressure gauge and fit the protective cap on the measuring outlet.

  Notes:

  • Read the safety instructions for oil before working.
  • If the brake pedal is correctly adjusted and the pressure does not fall to 0 MPa, the brake valve is not sealed and can cause the brakes to remain applied and then overheat during operation.

• What is the correct sequence to replace the brake valve?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic system.
  3. Remove the horn from the brake valve and fit it to the new brake valve.
  4. Mark up and detach the hydraulic hoses from the brake valve, plugging the connections immediately to protect the hydraulic system from impurities.
  5. Secure the brake valve under the cab.
  6. Remove the brake valve attaching bolts.
  7. Remove the brake valve by pulling it downward.
  8. Transfer the connection adapters to the new brake valve.
  9. Fit the new brake valve, remembering the spacer ring.
  10. Connect the hydraulic hoses to the brake valve according to the marking, checking that the O-rings are intact and fitted correctly.
  11. Grease and adjust the brake pedal.
  12. Turn on the main electric power and start the engine; run the engine at idling speed.
  13. Test the brakes a couple of times.
  14. Check that the brake valve's connections are sealed tightly.
  15. Bleed the wheel brakes' brake cylinders.

  Note: Read the safety instructions for oil before working.

• What is the correct sequence to replace the shuttle valve for dual brake pedals?

  Applies to machines with a reversible operator's position, which have an extra brake pedal and brake valve.

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic system.
  3. Mark up and detach the hydraulic hoses and fittings from the shuttle valve, plugging the connections immediately to protect the hydraulic system from impurities.
  4. Remove the socket cap screws that hold the shuttle valve.
  5. Transfer the connection adapters to the new shuttle valve.
  6. Fit the new shuttle valve.
  7. Connect the hydraulic hose and fittings to the shuttle valve according to the marking, checking that the O-rings are intact and fitted correctly.
  8. Turn on the main electric power and start the engine; run the engine at idling speed.
  9. Test the brakes a couple of times.
  10. Check that the shuttle valve's connections are sealed tightly.
  11. Bleed the wheel brakes' brake cylinders.

Accumulator – Driveline, Axles & Brakes

• What is the correct sequence to check the brake accumulator's condition?

  1. Start the engine and let it idle for approximately 1 minute, until the accumulator charging valve switches to cooling.
  2. Turn off the engine and turn the start key to position I.
  3. Apply and release the brake several times, counting how many applications are possible before the low brake pressure warning light activates; it should be possible to apply the brake 8 times before the light activates.
  4. If the warning light activates sooner, one of the brake system's accumulators is probably defective and should be checked further.

• What is the correct sequence to check the accumulator charging pressure?

  1. Operate and warm up the machine so the hydraulic oil reaches operating temperature (50°C).
  2. Depressurise the hydraulic system.
  3. Connect a pressure gauge to the measuring outlet for accumulator charging pressure on the accumulator charging valve.
  4. Start the engine and let it idle.
  5. Close the accumulator drain valve, checking it is completely closed and the lock ring tightened.
  6. Check that the pressure slowly rises to the specified accumulator charging pressure on the pressure plate.
  7. Brake repeatedly and check at which pressure the accumulator charging valve switches to charging; it should switch to cooling at 13±0.5 MPa.
  8. Depressurise the hydraulic system.
  9. Remove the pressure gauge and fit the protective cap on the pressure check connection.
  10. Close the accumulator drain valve again, checking it is completely closed and the lock ring tightened.

• What is the correct sequence to check the brake accumulators?

  1. Start the engine and let it idle for approximately 1 minute, until the accumulator charging valve switches to cooling.
  2. Turn off the engine and turn the start key to position I.
  3. Apply and release the brake several times, counting how many applications are possible before the low brake pressure warning lamp activates; it should be possible to apply the brake at least 8 times before it activates.
  4. If the warning light activates earlier, investigate the accumulators further, since one is probably defective.

Transmission Removal

• What is the correct sequence to disconnect and remove the transmission?

  1. Park the machine on a level surface and block the wheels to prevent movement.
  2. Open the battery compartment door and disconnect the battery cables (negative first), isolating them.
  3. Disconnect the engine from the transmission, following the engine disconnection procedure.
  4. Once the engine is disconnected from the transmission, remove the propeller shaft by removing its bolt.
  5. Attach a suitable hoist and sling to the transmission.
  6. Remove any other cables or wires that may interfere with removal.
  7. Manoeuvre the transmission forward, away from the engine, then slowly hoist it while watching for any wires or cables that might become entangled.
  8. Lower it to the floor and secure it to prevent it from toppling over onto personnel.

• What is the correct sequence to install the flex plate?

  1. Position the flex plate and weld nut assembly on the impeller cover, with the weld nuts toward the cover.
  2. Align the intermediate flex plate and backing ring with the holes in the impeller cover, positioning the backing ring's two dimples (180° apart) toward the engine flywheel.
  3. Install the bolts and lockwashers, tightening to a torque of 23-25 ft-lbs.

• What is the correct sequence to install the transmission?

  Installation is achieved by reversing the removal procedure, plus the following additional steps.

  1. Remove all burrs from the flywheel mounting face and nose pilot bore, and clean the drive plate surface with solvent.
  2. Check the engine flywheel and housing for conformance to the standard tolerance specifications for pilot bore size, pilot bore runout, and mounting face flatness, and measure and record the engine crankshaft end play.
  3. Align the bolt, drive ring, and flex plate holes.
  4. Install the flex plate attaching bolt, snug but not tightened, then rotate the engine flywheel and install the remaining flywheel-to-drive attaching bolts snug but not tightened; once all 7 bolts are installed, torque each one to 25-30 ft-lbs, rotating the flywheel between each bolt until all are tightened.
  5. Install the stud with bolt and washer, and align the transmission assembly to the engine.
  6. Apply the torque values from the manual's torque table to all nuts and bolts.
  7. If transmission failure had occurred, back-flush with clean transmission oil and compressed air until all foreign material is removed, then replace the transmission fluid, filter, connecting lines and cooler, and fill with clean, previously unused fluid.
  8. Ensure the transmission cooling hoses are properly connected to the inlet and outlet ports.
  9. After the transmission shift and disconnecting controls are connected, check the operation of the control valve.

  Note: Do not reverse the transmission cooler lines, since this would back-flush the transmission cooling system.

Brake Control System

• What is the correct sequence to check the parking brake's working pressure?

  1. Measure the pressure at the designated test point; the working pressure must be 130 bar.

• What is the correct sequence to check the pedal brake's working pressure?

  1. Measure the pressure at the designated test point; the working pressure must be 145 bar.

• What is the correct sequence to depressurise the brake system before changing the brake filter?

  1. Open the tap.
  2. Pump the brake pedal until it no longer comes back up.

  Note: Verify the system is not under pressure before performing the filter change.

Wheel Brake

• What is the correct sequence to bleed the wheel brakes?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Place a ring spanner on the bleed nipple and connect a transparent hose to it, directing the other end of the hose into a collection container.
  3. Start the machine and press down on the brake pedal, keeping the pedal pressed down.
  4. Open the bleed nipple and allow oil to run out until it is free of air bubbles, letting through at least two litres of oil to ensure no air pockets remain in the system.
  5. Close the bleed nipple.
  6. Move the spanner and hose to the other side and repeat the same steps.

  Notes:

  • Avoid skin contact with brake oil, which may be warm; use protective gloves.
  • Both the brake cylinder and disc brake must be bled after any work where the brake system is opened or after work on the wheel brake.

• What is the correct sequence to bleed the wheel brakes?

  The hydraulic hose between the brake pedal and brake is long, so allow at least two litres of oil to pass through the breather nipple to ensure no air pockets remain.

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Place a box wrench on the breather nipple and connect a transparent hose to it, routing the other end into a collection container.
  3. Start the machine and push down the brake pedal, holding it down.
  4. Open the breather nipple and let the oil run out until free from air bubbles.
  5. Close the breather nipple.
  6. Move the wrench, hose and collection container, and repeat on the other side.

• Checking the wheel hub and angle gear lubrication oil level on a driven wheel

  1. Remove the cover.
  2. Clean the wheel hub.
  3. Turn the wheel into a position where the wheel hub drain hole is about 15 degrees below the centre line of the gear unit.
  4. Remove the plug.
  5. The oil level must be at the same level as the fill hole; add oil if necessary, and wait a few minutes for the oil to flow to the angle gear. The oil type is the same as for the wheel hub.
  6. Reinstall the plug and the cover.

  Note: In one series of wheel gear units there are two oil plugs located at 75 degrees; in the other series the oil plugs are located at 180 degrees.

• Changing a driven wheel on a rubber tyred gantry crane

  1. Put the bottle jack under the running wheel fork.
  2. Lift with the bottle jack 160 mm.
  3. Fix the support with plates and bolts to the plate under the sill beam.
  4. Add the turn stopper.
  5. Add a support under the jack.
  6. Lift with the jack 160 mm.
  7. Add a further support under the first support.
  8. Add a second support under the jack.
  9. Lift with the jack 160 mm.
  10. Add a second support under the first support.

  Note: Check that the ground is straight and flat under the jack. Pay attention to the cleanliness of the rim, wheel hub and wheel nuts: any paint, oil or grease on these surfaces prevents proper tightening of the wheel nuts, and loose nuts allow the rim to move, which causes severe damage to the hub. Required lifting equipment: 1 bottle jack; 1 turn stopper (length 80 mm); 1 support (length 2825 mm); 4 supports (length 140 mm).

• Checking the wheel hub lubrication oil level on a non-driven wheel

  1. Remove the cover.
  2. Clean the wheel hub.
  3. Turn the wheel into a position where the wheel hub drain hole is about 15 degrees below the centre line of the gear unit.
  4. Remove the plug.
  5. The oil level must be at the same level as the fill hole; add oil if necessary, and wait a few minutes for the oil to flow to the wheel hub. The oil type is given in the technical data section.
  6. Reinstall the plug and the cover.

  Note: In one series of wheel gear units there are two oil plugs located at 75 degrees; in the other series the oil plugs are located at 180 degrees.

• Changing a non-driven wheel on a rubber tyred gantry crane

  1. Put the bottle jack under the driving wheel fork.
  2. Lift with the bottle jack 160 mm.
  3. Fix the support with plates and bolts to the plate under the sill beam.
  4. Add the turn stopper.
  5. Add a support under the jack.
  6. Lift with the jack 160 mm.
  7. Add a further support under the first support.
  8. Add a second support under the jack.
  9. Lift with the jack 160 mm.
  10. Add a second support under the first support.

  Note: Check that the ground is straight and flat under the jack. Pay attention to the cleanliness of the rim, wheel hub and wheel nuts: any paint, oil or grease on these surfaces prevents proper tightening of the wheel nuts, and loose nuts allow the rim to move, which causes severe damage to the hub. Required lifting equipment: 1 bottle jack; 1 turn stopper (length 80 mm); 1 support (length 2825 mm); 4 supports (length 140 mm).

• Checking the AWC (automatic wear compensator) of the hoist brake for wear

  1. Rotate the compensating nut clockwise to compensate for lining wear and the reduced reserve stroke.
  2. Replace worn parts, and the complete AWC unit, as soon as possible.
  3. Release one brake at a time using the manual release; the second brake must hold the load safely. If necessary, check and repeat the brake adjustment.

  Note: The catch and the freewheel may be subject to wear. Wear can be recognized from a constant reduction of the reserve stroke in case of lining wear, even though the AWC is actuated.

• Removing and disassembling a planetary wheel end for service

  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, and block the wheels that will not be raised.
  2. Raise the vehicle so the area to be serviced is off the ground, and support it with safety stands.
  3. Remove the nuts, washers and wheel rim clamps, then remove the tyre, rim and spacer.
  4. Rotate the hub assembly until the oil drain plug in the planetary spider is at the bottom.
  5. Remove the oil drain plug, and drain and discard the lubricant.
  6. Match-mark the spider and wheel hub for correct alignment when reassembling.
  7. Remove the planetary spider cover capscrews, and remove the cover.
  8. Remove the spider-to-hub capscrews and washers, or nuts and washers.
  9. Insert a pry bar into the assembly notches and separate the planetary spider assembly from the wheel hub assembly, without fully removing the spider assembly yet. On axles without assembly notches, strike the spider with a plastic or rubber mallet to separate it instead.

  Note: Always wear safe eye protection when performing this maintenance. Block the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving, and support the vehicle with safety stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by jacks, since jacks can slip or fall over and cause serious personal injury. Note: the planetary gearing on flange-mounted hubs can be serviced without removing the tyre from the wheel end.

• Installing the wheel hub and adjusting the wheel bearing preload on a planetary wheel end

  1. Use a lifting device to carefully lift and slide the wheel hub assembly over the spindle, keeping it aligned with the spindle to avoid oil seal damage.
  2. Install the ring gear hub assembly, including the outer bearing cone, on the spindle.
  3. Install the wheel bearing adjusting nut on the spindle.
  4. Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to the initial seating torque for the relevant axle capacity class, while rotating the wheel hub.
  5. Continue rotating the hub at least one full revolution in both directions.
  6. Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut again to the initial seating torque, while rotating the wheel hub in both directions; repeat the seating and rotating steps until the adjusting nut will not advance further under the initial seating torque.
  7. Loosen the adjusting nut 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
  8. Tighten the adjusting nut to the final adjustment torque for the relevant axle capacity class, while rotating the wheel hub.
  9. Install the adjusting nut lockplate, either with its flat side against a flat surface of the nut, or with its notch over a corner of the nut; if necessary, tighten the adjusting nut further (never loosen it) to align the lockplate holes with the threaded holes in the ring gear hub.
  10. Install new lockplate capscrews with pre-applied locking agent on the threads; if reusing the original capscrews, apply 2-3 drops of a threadlocking compound to the internal threads of the ring gear hub. Tighten the capscrews to 60-75 lb-ft (81-102 N.m).

  Note: Take care when using lifting devices: inspect a lifting strap for damage before use, and never use it to shock-load or drop-load a component, to avoid serious personal injury and component damage. Do not loosen the adjusting nut once the final adjustment torque is set, since this can result in an incorrect bearing preload. When using a threadlocking compound, follow the manufacturer's instructions to avoid eye and skin irritation; if it gets into the eyes, flush them with water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention as soon as possible.

• Replacing the hydraulic cylinder on a quayside container crane's wheel brake

  1. Lock out the crane's motion affecting safe driving by performing the lock-out and tag-out procedure.
  2. Release the spring force.
  3. Bracket the wheel brake with a fork truck, and remove the bolts on its support.
  4. Suspend the wheel brake with the fork truck.
  5. Install a new wheel brake with the fork truck, connect the oil hose, and adjust it according to the alignment criteria.
  6. Remove the lock-out and tag-out devices, and pre-operate the crane.
  7. Start up and monitor the crane to verify its operation before returning it to service.

  Note: The hydraulic cylinder is the main actuating component of the wheel brake and needs special tools to assemble; it is difficult to repair on site. If it fails, replace the whole cylinder and have it repaired in a workshop by a professional.

• Replacing the brake gasket on a quayside container crane's wheel brake

  1. Lock out the crane's motion for the affected drives by performing the lock-out and tag-out procedure.
  2. Open the brake to its widest span.
  3. Loosen the bolts on the gasket.
  4. Hold the gasket by hand, sever it toward the wheel side to break it away from the key, and pull it out along the wheel radial direction.
  5. Inspect the gasket surface for cleanliness, deformation, and greasy dirt.
  6. Install a new gasket of the same type along the wheel radial direction, aligning the gasket groove with the joint key groove.
  7. Screw down all the bolts.
  8. Adjust the wheel brake per the alignment criteria.
  9. Remove the lock-out and tag-out devices, and pre-operate the crane.

  Note: Replace the gasket when its thickness is less than 2 mm.

Brake Oil Tank

• What is the correct sequence to change the brake system tank's breather filter?

  1. Clean the area around the brake tank's breather filter.
  2. Remove the cover from the filter holder by removing the screw in the middle and lifting away the cover.
  3. Remove the old filter cartridge.
  4. Clean the filter holder, working carefully so impurities do not enter the tank.
  5. Fit a new filter cartridge.
  6. Refit the cover to the filter holder.

• What is the correct sequence to change the brake system oil?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic and brake systems.
  3. Place a receptacle under the brake oil tank (holds approximately 140 litres).
  4. Clean the area around the drain plug.
  5. Remove the drain plug and drain the tank.
  6. Fit the drain plug, using a new gasket washer.
  7. Clean the area around the filling point.
  8. Remove the filler cap and fill the tank with oil, to the correct volume and grade.
  9. Check that the drain plug seals tight.
  10. Remove the receptacle, handling the oil as environmentally hazardous waste.

  Note: Always depressurize the hydraulic systems before working on them; avoid skin contact with the oil, use protective gloves.

• Changing the lubrication oil of a driven wheel hub

  1. Remove the cover.
  2. Clean the wheel hub.
  3. Turn the wheel into a position where the wheel hub drain hole is at the lowest position.
  4. Remove the plugs.
  5. Drain the oil into a container through the drain hole.
  6. Turn the wheel into a position where the wheel hub drain hole is about 15 degrees below the centre line of the gear unit.
  7. Fill the hub with lubrication oil up to the level of the filling hole, until it reaches the level of the second plug. The oil type is the same as for the wheel hub.
  8. Reinstall the plugs and the cover.

  Note: Avoid skin contact with oil; use protective gloves. Do not discharge oil into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the oil to a hazardous waste collection point. Take care to ensure absolute cleanliness; impurities in oil cause damage to the system.

• Changing the lubrication oil of a non-driven wheel hub

  1. Remove the cover.
  2. Clean the wheel hub.
  3. Turn the wheel into a position where the wheel hub drain hole is at the lowest position.
  4. Remove the plugs.
  5. Drain the oil into a container through the drain hole.
  6. Turn the wheel into a position where the wheel hub drain hole is about 15 degrees below the centre line of the gear unit.
  7. Fill the hub with lubrication oil up to the level of the filling hole, until it reaches the level of the second plug. The oil type is the same as for the wheel hub.
  8. Reinstall the plugs and the cover.

  Note: Avoid skin contact with oil; use protective gloves. Do not discharge oil into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the oil to a hazardous waste collection point. Take care to ensure absolute cleanliness; impurities in oil cause damage to the system.

• Checking and adjusting the air gap of the gantry brake

  1. Remove the fan cover.
  2. Loosen the fixing screws, screw the adjustment bushes into the magnetic section using a fixed spanner, and tighten the fixing screws again.
  3. Check the air gap again.

  Note: In normal application, the brake is practically maintenance-free. Only in applications involving extremely high frictional work does the air gap S1 have to be checked at defined intervals and readjusted to the nominal value before the maximum air gap is exceeded. Before commissioning, it must be checked in the de-energized state that the air gap is uniform and equal to the nominal size, using a feeler gauge between the armature disk and magnetic section at 3 points on the circumference. When the motor is recommissioned, the brake must be checked for correct operation. The nominal air gap S1 is 0.5 mm (minimum 0.5 mm), and the maximum allowed air gap S1 is 1.5 mm. Frictional surfaces must not come into contact with oil or grease.

• Checking and adjusting the trolley brake

  1. Remove the fan cover.
  2. Loosen the fixing screws, screw the adjustment bushes into the magnetic section using a fixed spanner, and tighten the fixing screws again.
  3. Check the air gap again.

  Note: Do not leave the lever in the brake: tripping hazard. In normal application, the brake is practically maintenance-free. Only in applications involving extremely high frictional work does the air gap S1 have to be checked at defined intervals and readjusted to the nominal value before the maximum air gap is exceeded. Before commissioning, it must be checked in the de-energized state that the air gap is uniform and equal to the nominal size, using a feeler gauge between the armature disk and magnetic section at 3 points on the circumference. When the motor is recommissioned, the brake must be checked for correct operation. The nominal air gap S1 is 0.5 mm (minimum 0.5 mm), and the maximum allowed air gap S1 is 1.5 mm. Frictional surfaces must not come into contact with oil or grease.

• Draining and refilling the oil on a driven axle assembly

  1. Open the drain holes on the carrier assembly, on the wheel assemblies, and if present, on the interaxle differential and drop gear housing; on the hub assemblies, the drain plug should be turned downward.
  2. Replace the oil draining plugs after draining.
  3. Remove the oil filler plug and the oil level control plug on the carrier assembly, on the wheel assembly, and if present, on the interaxle differential and drop gear housing.
  4. Fill with oil and check the oil level at the oil level plug hole (overflow control); wait a few minutes, and if the level falls, add oil until the level remains constant.

  Note: Place the vehicle in a horizontal position. Draining the oil is to be done only when the oil is warm. Clean all lubrication points before opening them.

• Replacing a motor coupling on a quayside container crane

  1. Lower the spreader to the ground and slacken the main hoist ropes (or position the boom level and slacken the boom hoist ropes).
  2. Lock out the crane's motion for the affected drives by performing the lock-out and tag-out procedure.
  3. Disconnect the coupling between the drum and the rotary limit switch, and use slings and softeners to connect the drum to the service crane.
  4. Tie off each of the ropes in the machinery house to remove the rope load from the drum.
  5. Remove the electrical connection from the motor brake, release the brake manually, then remove the brake.
  6. Remove the chain pulley (generally in two halves) using the service crane.
  7. Remove the driven side jaw.
  8. Remove the brake disc.
  9. Remove the driven side half coupling, protecting the reducer shaft during the process.
  10. Unfold the cover of the new coupling, clean off the anti-rust oil, and heat-insert the two half couplings (or use oil bath heating).
  11. When re-aligning, match the serial number between the half coupling and the brake disc.
  12. Thread the heated half coupling onto the reducer shaft as quickly as possible, not exceeding ten minutes, to avoid it seizing before it is in position.
  13. Realign the motor coupling per the alignment method; for allowable compensation rate, installation separation and nut torque, refer to the coupling manual.

  Note: A newly purchased coupling should be anti-corrosion treated and well sealed.

• Replacing a drum coupling (dental/gear type) on a quayside container crane

  1. Disjoin the drum coupling step by step, protecting the outer dental boss and inner dental flange.
  2. To demount the inner dental flange: place the drum in an area near the assembly, then unfasten its nuts, suspend the flange with the service crane, and drop it out from the drum step by step.
  3. Before demounting the outer dental boss, assess whether it is still useful; if it is to be discarded, plane it off from the key slot with fire so the coupling drops out easily.
  4. Add an appropriate height shim stack under a jack (all shims stuffed in place), position the jack steadily on top of the shims.
  5. Position the raising flange at the peak, passing the double screw through the hole in the flange.
  6. Tighten the nuts, ensuring the interface between the raising flange and jack is level and in full contact.
  7. Start the jack; the whole procedure normally takes about one hour.
  8. To clean the rust-inhibiting oil from the new coupling, first take apart the inner dental flange, outer dental boss and abrasion indicator, and clean them carefully.
  9. Heat-insert the outer dental boss (or use oil bath heating).
  10. Telescope the abrasion indicator into place once preparation is complete.
  11. Telescope the outer dental boss onto the reducer shaft as quickly as possible, since it will shrink into place in a short time.
  12. After the outer dental boss is fixed, telescope the abrasion indicator.
  13. Realign the drum coupling per the alignment method; for allowable compensation rate, refer to the coupling manual.

  Note: Before replacement, carefully study the drawings and understand the drum coupling's construction. A newly purchased coupling should be anti-corrosion treated and well sealed.

Transmission Oil Cooler

• What is the correct sequence to replace the transmission oil cooler?

  The cooler should be replaced if a transmission failure has occurred.

  1. Remove the engine access panels.
  2. Break the suction in the hydraulic tank to reduce fluid loss (some fluid in the cooler and lines will still be lost).
  3. Provide a suitable container to catch draining hydraulic oil.
  4. Drain all coolant liquid via the drain plug, then disconnect the engine cooling hoses from the exchanger by removing their clamps.
  5. Tag, disconnect and cap the transmission oil exchanger hoses.
  6. Support the weight of the transmission oil exchanger, then remove its bolts to release it.

  Note: Dispose of drained oil in accordance with local and federal regulations.

• What is the correct sequence to install the transmission oil cooler?

  1. Install the transmission oil cooler by reversing the removal procedure.
  2. Fill the transmission to the Low mark on the sight gauge, then operate the engine until the transmission oil reaches normal operating temperature.
  3. Check the oil level and add oil to bring it to the Full mark on the sight gauge.
  4. Check all hoses and connections for leaks.

  Note: Do not reverse the hydraulic cooling or transmission cooling hoses, since this would back-flush the oil cooling system and cause internal damage.

• Checking and changing the oil in a powershift transmission with torque converter

  1. Every 500 operating hours, change the oil filter element.
  2. Every 1000 operating hours, drain and refill the system: drain with the oil at 150 to 200 degrees F (65.6-93.3 degrees C).
  3. Drain the transmission and remove the sump screen; clean the screen thoroughly and replace it, using new gaskets.
  4. Drain the oil filters, remove and discard the filter elements; clean the filter shells and install new elements.
  5. Refill the transmission to the LOW mark.
  6. Run the engine at 500-600 RPM to prime the converter and lines.
  7. Recheck the level with the engine running at 500-600 RPM, and add oil to bring the level to the LOW mark. When the oil temperature is hot (180-200 degrees F / 82.2-93.3 degrees C), make the final oil level check and bring the oil level to the FULL mark.

  Note: Check oil level daily with the engine running at 500-600 RPM and the oil at 180 to 200 degrees F (82.2-93.3 degrees C), maintaining the level to the FULL mark. It is recommended that filter elements be changed after 50 and 100 hours of operation on new, rebuilt or repaired units. Normal drain periods and filter change intervals assume average environmental and duty-cycle conditions; severe or sustained high operating temperatures, or very dusty atmospheric conditions, will cause accelerated deterioration and contamination, requiring shorter change intervals.

• Servicing the machine after a transmission overhaul

  1. Drain the entire system thoroughly.
  2. Disconnect and clean all hydraulic lines; where feasible, remove the lines from the machine for cleaning.
  3. Replace the oil filter elements, cleaning the filter cases thoroughly.
  4. Thoroughly clean the oil cooler: back-flush it with oil and compressed air until all foreign material is removed (flushing in the direction of normal oil flow will not adequately clean it); if necessary, remove the cooler assembly for cleaning with oil, compressed air and a steam cleaner. Do not use flushing compounds.
  5. Reassemble all components, using only the recommended oil type. Fill the transmission through the filter opening until fluid reaches the LOW mark; if the dipstick is not accessible, remove the lower check plug and fill until oil runs from the lower oil hole, then replace the filler and level plug.
  6. Run the engine two minutes at idle to prime the torque converter and hydraulic lines, then recheck the fluid level with the engine running at idle. Add fluid as necessary to reach the LOW mark or until it runs freely from the lower check plug hole, then install the level plug or dipstick. Recheck with hot oil (180-200 degrees F / 82.2-93.3 degrees C).
  7. Recheck all drain plugs, lines and connections for leaks, and tighten where necessary.

  Note: The transmission, torque converter and its hydraulic system are important links in the driveline between the engine and the wheels; the proper operation of one depends on the condition of the other, so after any repair or overhaul the balance of the system must be checked before the job is complete. After the overhauled or repaired transmission is installed, the oil cooler and connecting hydraulic system must be thoroughly cleaned.

• Adjusting the low (1st) clutch taper bearing on a powershift transmission

  1. Build up the transmission through converter housing installation on the transmission housing, per the assembly section of the manual.
  2. Place the transmission assembly in a horizontal position with the low (1st) clutch vertical (rear taper bearing up); if the clutch shaft rear bearing cap was temporarily installed, remove it. The adjustment must be made with the bearing cap O-ring, clutch pressure sleeve and clutch shaft rear oil sealing ring removed.
  3. Measure the thickness of the bearing cap with a micrometer at two locations, average the two readings, and record the result.
  4. Lubricate the taper bearing and bearing cap bore; confirm the bearing cap slip-fits in the bearing bore. Install the bearing cap on the rear cover using all four bearing cap studs and nuts.
  5. Rotate the output shaft flange to seat the taper bearings while rapping the transmission rear cover adjacent to the taper bearing, tightening the stud nuts in a crisscross sequence to 15-20 ft-lb torque (20.3-27.0 N.m).
  6. After seating the bearings, remove the two nuts that are 180 degrees apart and not next to the raised machined surface; loosen the remaining two nuts until finger tight.
  7. Using a micrometer depth gauge set against the raised machined surfaces, and a calibrated torque wrench, tighten the two remaining nuts in 10 in-lb (1.13 N.m) increments from 10 to 100 in-lb (1.13 to 11.3 N.m), rotating the output shaft flange while tightening. Measure both reference points at each increment; the difference between them must not exceed 0.005 in (0.127 mm) -- if it does, restart the seating procedure from the bearing installation step. Plot the average measurement at each increment on a record chart.
  8. Draw a best-fit straight line through the plotted data points. The gap value where the line crosses zero torque, minus the average of the previously recorded reference measurements, is the no-endplay, no-preload shim gap; add 0.006 +/- 0.001 in (0.1524 +/- 0.0254 mm) to this to get the final shim gap.
  9. Establish the shim pack: measure each shim with a micrometer to obtain the total shim pack, and confirm the measured total equals the sum of the individual shims; if not, repeat the shim selection process from the beginning.
  10. After the adjustment is complete, remove the bearing cap and install a new clutch shaft oil sealing ring and new O-rings on the clutch pressure sleeve and bearing cap, then install the pressure sleeve.
  11. Install the bearing cap with the proper shim pack, the stud nut lockwashers and stud nuts, and tighten to 41-45 ft-lb torque (55.6-61.0 N.m); rotate the output shaft to seat the bearings and recheck the stud nut torque.
  12. Install the external low bearing cap lube line from the lube pressure check port in the front housing to the low clutch rear bearing cap.

  Note: If a thermal assembly aid is used (expanding by heating to 275 +/- 25 degrees F / 135 +/- 14 degrees C), a check must be made after mating parts have reached the same temperature within 20 degrees F (11 degrees C) of ambient, to confirm the bearings are positioned solidly against their shoulders, before the bearing adjustment is made. This check must be made when installing the front and rear taper bearings on the low (1st) clutch shaft, before the clutch assembly is installed in the transmission housing.

Drive Shaft

• What is the correct sequence to remove the transmission-to-axle drive shaft?

  1. Park the machine on level ground, set the parking brake, and block the wheels to prevent movement.
  2. Open the battery compartment, disconnect the battery cables (negative first), and isolate them.
  3. Support the transmission-to-axle drive shaft.
  4. Remove the bolts and nuts on the transmission side and on the axle side.
  5. Remove the bolts to release the drive shaft from its support.
  6. Remove the drive shaft.

• What is the correct sequence to install the transmission-to-axle drive shaft?

  1. Install the drive shaft by reversing the removal procedure.

• Checking a cardan shaft on the driveline/axle

  1. Tighten the cardan shaft mounting screws to a tightening torque of 67 N.m.
  2. Check the joints for play.

• Replacing a cardan shaft on the driveline/axle

  1. Detach the lower end of the cardan shaft from the hub.
  2. Detach the drive motor from the fork and lift it away together with the cardan shaft.
  3. Detach the upper end of the cardan shaft from the drive motor.

  Note: Use appropriate lifting equipment for handling a removed shaft.

Drive Axle Removal

• What is the correct sequence to remove the drive axle?

  1. Park the machine on a level surface and block the wheels.
  2. Jack or hoist the front of the machine until the front tyres clear the ground, and place support blocks under the frame.
  3. Make certain the master disconnect switch is off and the batteries are disconnected, then remove the front deck cover plates for access to the drive shaft.
  4. Remove the drive wheels.
  5. Once the drive wheels are removed, hoist or raise the machine off the support blocks and lower it onto lower support blocks for easier access.
  6. Provide a suitable container to catch drained fluid, remove the plug to drain the axle housing, and once completely drained, reinstall the plug.
  7. Tag, disconnect and plug the brake circuit hoses.
  8. Tag and disconnect the remaining hose, releasing the parking brake if applied.
  9. Remove the bolt and hard washer to disconnect the drive shaft.
  10. Attach a suitable hoist and sling to the axle housing, exerting force sufficient to support the axle's weight.
  11. Remove the nuts, hard washer and bolt, then hoist the axle clear and move it to a prepared work area.
  12. Position the axle with the drive line brake housing aimed upward, for easier servicing of the carrier assembly.

  Notes:

  • Severe injury could occur if someone attempts to crank the engine while the drive shaft is being disconnected.
  • For the brakes to operate properly, the brake cooling hoses need to be reconnected exactly as they were removed.
  • Dispose of the drained fluid in accordance with local and federal regulations.

• What is the correct sequence to install the drive axle?

  1. Attach a suitable hoist and sling to the drive axle assembly and manoeuvre it into position on the front of the machine.
  2. Position the axle exactly as noted during removal, then install the bolts, hard washers and nuts to the proper torque values from the manual's torque table.
  3. Attach the drive shaft using its bolts and lockwasher.
  4. Reconnect the brake circuit hoses.
  5. Fill the differential with the specified lubricant.
  6. Service the planetary housing assemblies with the specified lubricant.
  7. Start the engine and allow the hydraulic oil to warm to normal operating temperature, then check the brake cooling hose connections for leaks.
  8. Perform the brake bleeding procedure.
  9. Install the drive wheels and tyres, following the tyre safety procedures.
  10. Raise the machine, remove it from the frame support blocks, and lower it onto the wheels.

Other Driveline, Axles & Brakes procedures

• How often should the fluid in front hubs with optional wet wheel seals be checked?

  Periodicity: every 250 hours

  1. Check the fluid in front hubs equipped with optional "WET" wheel seals every 250 hours.

• How should cardan shaft joints be lubricated and their slide areas maintained?

  1. Sight check: check integrity, cardan shaft fastening and tightness of the bolts.
  2. Lubrication: apply lubricant to the greasing nipples on the articulated joints until rings of grease form to protect the joints; a portable manual pump can be used.
  3. Cleaning the slide areas: keep the slide areas of the shafts clean and unpainted; periodically clean with suitable means and grease to protect against corrosion.

  Note: Before starting the inspection, always make sure no one switches on the machine, unless expressly requested to do so.

• What is the correct sequence to replace the brake system's distribution block?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic system.
  3. Mark up and detach the hydraulic hoses from the distribution block, plugging the connections immediately to protect the hydraulic system from impurities.
  4. Remove the screws that hold the distribution block.
  5. Transfer the connection adapters to the new distribution block.
  6. Fit the new distribution block.
  7. Connect the hydraulic hoses to the distribution block according to the marking, checking that the O-rings are intact and fitted correctly.
  8. Turn on the main electric power and start the engine; run the engine at idling speed.
  9. Test the brakes a couple of times.
  10. Check that the distribution block's connections are sealed tightly.
  11. Bleed the wheel brakes' brake cylinders.

• What is the correct sequence to replace a brake-system pressure or position switch?

  Documented identically for three brake-system switches: the low brake pressure switch, the disengagement switch, and the brake lights switch.

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic system.
  3. Detach the electrical connectors from the switch.
  4. Replace the switch.
  5. Fit in reverse order.

• How is a cardan shaft inspected and lubricated?

  1. Check the cardan shaft's integrity, fastening, and bolt tightness.
  2. Lubricate the articulated joints through their greasing nipples, applying lubricant until rings of grease form to protect the joints, using a portable manual pump if needed.
  3. Clean the slide areas of the shafts, which must be kept clean and unpainted, using suitable means and grease to protect against corrosion.

  Note: Before starting the inspection, make sure no one switches on the machine unless expressly requested to do so.

• What is the correct sequence to check the brake oil pump pressure?

  1. Operate and warm up the machine so the oil in the brake system reaches operating temperature, at least 50°C.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Depressurize the brake and hydraulic systems.
  4. Connect a pressure gauge (0-25 MPa) to the test outlet for pump pressure on the accumulator charging valve.
  5. Start the engine and let it idle.
  6. Close the drain valve on the accumulator charging valve and check the pump pressure during charging; it should rise to 19±0.5 MPa before the accumulator charging valve switches to cooling, and the pressure drops when it switches.
  7. Check the pressure during cooling, which should be a maximum of 1-1.5 MPa at maximum engine rpm.
  8. Turn off the engine.
  9. Depressurize the brake and hydraulic systems.
  10. Remove the pressure gauge and fit the protective cap on the pressure check connection.
  11. Close the drain valve on the accumulator charging valve.

  Note: Always depressurize the hydraulic systems before working on them; avoid skin contact with the oil, use protective gloves, since hot pressurized oil can cause burns.

• What is the correct sequence to change the brake oil filter?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Depressurize the hydraulic and brake systems.
  3. Remove the cover plates from over the engine compartment.
  4. Place a receptacle under the oil filter to collect any spills.
  5. Clean the outside of the brake oil filter.
  6. Remove the drain plug on the underside of the filter and let the oil drain, waiting a while since it drains slowly.
  7. Remove the filter holder.
  8. Remove the filter cartridge, noting the position of the O-rings.
  9. Clean the filter holder.
  10. Fit the O-rings on the filter cartridge and filter holder, lubricating them with brake oil.
  11. Fit the small O-ring to the filter cartridge.
  12. Fit the new filter insert to the filter bracket.
  13. Fit the filter holder and the drain plug.
  14. Close the drain valve on the accumulator charging valve.
  15. Turn on the main electrical power and start the engine.
  16. Check that the filter holder does not leak.
  17. Remove the receptacle, handling the filter and oil as environmentally hazardous waste.
  18. Fit the cover plates over the engine.

  Notes:

  • Always depressurize the hydraulic and brake systems before working on them, leaving the valve open when changing; avoid skin contact with the oil, use protective gloves.
  • The filter holder is heavy; loosen it carefully.
  • It is very important that no new impurities enter the brake system when changing the filter.

• What is the correct sequence for the 1000-hour lubrication of the universal joints and trolley?

  Periodicity: Every 1000 hours.

  1. Lower the carriage and engage full spreading.
  2. Turn off the engine and turn off the main electric power.
  3. Clean the area around each grease cup before greasing.
  4. Grease the universal joints with grease.
  5. Secure the trolley in a way that ensures safety.
  6. Lubricate the trolley's mast wheel with grease.

• What is the correct sequence to remove the transmission oil filters?

  1. Shut down the engine and set the parking brake with the transmission in neutral.
  2. Open the engine access panels.
  3. Provide a suitable container to catch the small amount of transmission fluid lost when removing the filter elements.
  4. Remove the spin-on type filter elements.
  5. Remove the bolts, split flanges and O-ring from the filter head assembly.
  6. Remove the bolts with washers to release the filter head assembly from its support.

  Notes:

  • If the machine was subjected to heavy-duty operation just before shutdown, the transmission fluid may be extremely hot and could cause severe burns; if the filter elements are too hot to touch, let the unit cool before servicing.
  • Dispose of drained oil in accordance with local and federal regulations.

Looking for general maintenance tips and checklists? See Driveline, Axles & Brakes.