Engine & Cooling Procedures

This page lists 80 maintenance procedures for engine & cooling, drawn from HIT Srl's internal procedure library extracted from manufacturer service manuals.

HIT Srl supplies engine, fuel-system and cooling-circuit spare parts for this class of machine.

General guidance only — always follow the operation and maintenance manual for your specific machine.

Air Intake & turbo

• What is the correct sequence to perform a stationary Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) regeneration?

  1. Park the vehicle in an area where it can safely idle for up to 50 minutes (the regeneration period may be 5 to 50 minutes depending on severity).
  2. Set the parking brake and let the truck idle.
  3. Turn the Regen switch, located on the dash to the right of the steering column, to the "ON" position.
  4. Do not throttle the engine or apply the brake pedal until the regeneration is complete and the DPF light goes out.
  5. Turn the Regen switch to the "OFF" position after regeneration is complete.

  Note: Throttling the engine and/or applying the brake will stop the regeneration process.

• What precautions should be taken when starting and stopping a turbocharged engine?

  1. After starting the engine, let it idle for at least 30 seconds before bringing it to high revs.
  2. Before stopping the engine, let it idle for at least one minute.

  Notes:

  • Lack of lubricant, entry of foreign bodies, or lubricant contamination are the three main causes of turbocharger damage.
  • In case of lubricant leaks, vibrations or an abnormal sound, stop the engine immediately.

• What should be checked on the turbocharger every 1000 hours?

  Periodicity: every 1000 hours

  1. Check the seal of the gaskets and fittings on the intake and exhaust circuits, and eliminate any leaks.
  2. Examine the oil delivery and return pipes to make sure there is no damage that could reduce oil supply.

  Note: Any reduction in oil flow, given the turbocharger's high operating speeds, would cause it to fail.

• What is the correct sequence to clean and check the air filter cartridge?

  The primary air filter cartridge is normally replaced every 1000 hours, or at least once a year, or sooner if tears, deformation or holes are found.

  Periodicity: checked daily; primary cartridge replaced every 1000 hours or at least once a year

  1. Remove the cover by releasing the retaining clips.
  2. Withdraw the cartridge.
  3. Clean using compressed air at a maximum pressure of 3 bar, held about 5 cm from the element, blowing from inside to outside; never clean by tapping the element on a hard surface. Alternatively, if clogged with soot or oil, immerse the element in a water and detergent solution for 15 minutes, rotate it on its axis for at least 2 minutes, rinse abundantly, then dry with warm air.
  4. Before refitting, check: the condition of the gasket; the fins of the filter element; the integrity of the element by inserting a light source inside it (even the smallest tear will let light through); that the filter body is clean of dust residue; that the cartridge is correctly seated; that the rubber evacuator valve is clean of deposits and free of tears (replace if damaged).

  Notes:

  • Clean the filter element a maximum of 6 times, then replace it.
  • Incorrect fitting, allowing inadequately filtered air to enter, can cause serious engine damage.

• How often should the air filter's optional safety cartridge be replaced, and how is it accessed?

  Periodicity: at least every three replacements of the outer cartridge, and in any case every 1500 hours (every year)

  1. The safety cartridge must never be cleaned, only replaced.
  2. Access it by withdrawing the outer filter element as previously described.

  Note: Handle with care and maximum cleanliness during replacement.

• What is the correct sequence to clean the closed crankcase breather valve?

  Periodicity: every 2500 hours

  1. Remove the valve from the engine.
  2. Immerse it in a container of diesel fuel overnight.
  3. Rinse it several times with clean diesel fuel, then let it drip dry.
  4. Refit it to the engine.

  Note: The valve can be cleaned a maximum of 2 times after the first 2500 hours of work; mark the valve after cleaning it.

• What is the correct sequence to replace the diesel particulate filtering device (combi filter)?

  Requires special authorisation.

  1. Put the machine in service position, and make sure the combi filter is not connected to the electric mains before starting.
  2. Remove the exhaust pipe.
  3. Remove the protective cover from the electrical distribution box (four screws).
  4. Mark and remove the cables from their connections and the lock nut on the main cable.
  5. Remove the clamp for the inlet manifold.
  6. Remove the four screws securing the particulate filtering device.
  7. Remove the silencer.
  8. Fit in the reverse order.

  Note: The filter must not be covered, and combustible material must not be near or in contact with it during clean burning; hot air flows from the outlet pipe during clean burning and can ignite combustible material.

• What is the correct sequence to replace the air intake and exhaust outlet pipes and hoses?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Remove the exhaust system pipes and hoses.
  3. Undo the tie wraps holding the hoses and cables together, and protect the engine air inlet and hose with a seal.
  4. Remove the hose clamps that hold the air hose to the filter and the turbo.
  5. Remove the hose clamps holding the intercooler hoses in place.
  6. Remove the intercooler hoses.
  7. Install in reverse order.

• What is the correct sequence to replace the exhaust system?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Undo the clamp between the outlet pipe and the silencer.
  3. Remove the screws that fix the outlet pipe to the chassis, and remove the outlet pipe.
  4. Undo the clamp between the pipe and the silencer.
  5. Remove the screws that fix the silencer to the chassis.
  6. Remove the silencer.
  7. Install in reverse order.

  Note: Never touch the turbo or silencer when the machine is running or just after it has been turned off; risk of burn injuries.

• What is the correct sequence to change the engine air filter?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Clean the outside of the air filter housing.
  3. Remove the cap from the air filter housing.
  4. Remove the filter cartridge.
  5. Clean the particle outlet.
  6. Check the safety cartridge, changing it every other time the filter cartridge is changed.
  7. Fit a new filter cartridge and fit the cap.
  8. Reset the indicator.

  Note: The filter cartridge should be changed, not cleaned.

• Replacing the air filter on the engine

  1. Open the filter housing cover.
  2. Remove the air filter (the larger filter element).
  3. Check the safety cartridge (the smaller filter element), and replace it if necessary; the safety cartridge is usually replaced every other time the air filter is replaced.
  4. Install the new air filter, and mount the cover.
  5. Reset the clog warning indicator by pressing the button on its end.

  Note: The air filter is replaced during scheduled maintenance; depending on conditions, it may clog during a relatively short operating period.

• Cleaning and checking the crankcase breather tube on the engine

  1. Remove the crankcase breather tube from the breather vent tube.
  2. Use solvent to clean the inside of the crankcase breather tube, and dry it with compressed air.
  3. Use air pressure to blow through the vent tube.
  4. Replace the vent tube if it is clogged.

Engine Mechanical

• What precautions should be observed during the running-in period of a new machine?

  Periodicity: running-in period of at least 200 hours for a new machine

  1. Do not demand maximum power from the engine.
  2. After every start-up, warm the engine up slowly, avoiding reaching high rotation speeds immediately.
  3. Check the oil level frequently.

• What is the correct sequence to remove and replace the diesel engine on this class of machine?

  Documented for several engine and transmission variants; the underlying sequence is the same, though some steps use nuts and others use screws to secure the flexible plate, depending on the specific engine/transmission combination fitted.

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Remove the engine compartment hood.
  3. Remove the partition wall between the engine compartment and the cab (secured with four screws, carries the air cleaner); release the hose connection from the turbo and undo the hose clamp holding the inlet hose to the left-hand front engine mounting, and protect the air inlet and hose with a seal.
  4. Connect lifting equipment to the diesel engine.
  5. Undo cables and hoses as necessary before separating the engine and transmission pump: remove the earth strap screw on the machine's left-hand side; remove the AC compressor's screws and drive belt and fold it away without undoing the hoses; undo the engine cable connector by releasing its screw and pressing the plastic lock on the underside, then fold the connector aside.
  6. Empty and collect all fluids, then undo and remove the fuel hoses from the primary fuel filter and fuel tank, plugging all connections and hoses immediately to prevent impurities entering the fuel or hydraulic system.
  7. Remove the bracket for the transmission dipstick from the engine on the machine's left-hand side, and undo the silencer to access the nuts on the flexible plate.
  8. Remove the radiator.
  9. Secure the transmission with a jack or equivalent.
  10. Remove the screws for the cover plate under the flywheel.
  11. Remove the nuts or screws for the flexible plate through the hole under the cover plate, turning the engine over between each one to bring the next fastener into reach.
  12. Take up the slack in the hoisting equipment, without raising the engine.
  13. Remove the screws between the engine and the transmission.
  14. Remove the screws in the engine brackets.
  15. Withdraw the engine rearwards to separate it from the transmission, then lift it away.
  16. Assembly: move the engine mountings from the removed engine to the new one, torquing the front engine mounting screws to 189 Nm.
  17. Move other components from the old engine to the new one as necessary.
  18. Put two studs into the flywheel housing as a guide for installation.
  19. Grease the torque converter connection on both the engine and the transmission.
  20. Align a stud on the flywheel so it is centred on a hole in the flywheel housing.
  21. Lift the new engine into place, making sure the studs on the flywheel are correctly aligned and do not damage the flexible plate.
  22. Install the screws that fix the transmission and engine, but do not tighten them fully, leaving about a millimetre of gap to facilitate installing the flexible plate fasteners.
  23. Install the nuts or screws holding the flexible plate to the flywheel in two stages, not tightening them fully in the first stage.
  24. Tighten the screws that fix the transmission and engine.
  25. Rotate the flywheel a further turn and tighten the flexible plate fasteners.
  26. Line up and screw down the engine mountings on the rubber dampers, torquing the screws to 135 Nm.
  27. Fit the cover plate under the flywheel.
  28. Remove the lifting equipment from the engine and the jack from underneath the transmission.
  29. Reattach the relevant hoses and cables to the engine, checking fluid levels and topping up as necessary.
  30. Refit the radiator, partition wall, silencer and other equipment, in reverse order of removal.
  31. Test drive the machine.

  Notes:

  • Read the safety instructions for oil and for the cooling system before working.
  • The engine is very heavy; risk of pinch injury.
  • If the flexible plates are damaged during the engine replacement, they must also be replaced.
  • Beware of balance before the engine is lifted.
  • If a dropped nut needs to be removed, the engine must be undone from its mountings and from the transmission; secure the nut in the socket during installation.

• How is the engine oil level checked?

  1. Check the motor oil level every day.
  2. Maintain the oil level between the high and low marks, as close to the high mark as possible.

  Notes:

  • Never operate the engine with the oil level below the low mark or above the high mark.
  • A 15-minute drain-back time is required if the engine has been running.

• What is the correct sequence for a normal engine start?

  1. Adjust the seat.
  2. Make sure the parking brake is applied.
  3. Place all control levers in neutral.
  4. Turn the ignition key to START and hold to start the engine.
  5. Warm up the engine: check that engine and transmission oil pressures rise immediately (if the warning lights do not go off, stop the engine and notify maintenance); temperature gauges rise more slowly than pressure gauges; the battery charge indicator should go off after starting, otherwise stop the engine.
  6. Allow the engine coolant temperature to rise to the low end of the normal range (approximately 40°C); do not apply full load before it reaches approximately 80°C.
  7. Operate all controls slowly while the engine warms up, listening for unusual noises.
  8. Once engine, transmission and hydraulic system temperatures are in the normal operating range, the machine is ready for use.
  9. Test the braking system before proceeding to use the machine.

  Notes:

  • Do not operate the starting motor for longer than 15 seconds; wait 10 seconds between start attempts if starting fails.
  • Sound the horn to alert personnel in the area before starting the engine, and make sure everyone is clear of the machine, including the engine compartment.

• What precautions and sequence should be followed for a cold-weather engine start (below 10°C)?

  Applies when temperatures are below 50°F (10°C).

  1. Keep the batteries fully charged.
  2. Keep the fuel clean and free of water.
  3. Use lubricating oil with the correct viscosity for the ambient temperature range.
  4. Pre-heat the glow plugs, holding the key in this position for a maximum of 5 seconds.
  5. Start the engine.

• What is the correct sequence to stop the engine?

  1. Turn the key switch to OFF to turn off all electrical control circuits and remove the starting key from the instrument panel.
  2. Apply the parking brake.
  3. If equipped, and the engine will be stopped for a prolonged period in cold weather, plug in the engine block heater and/or hydraulic oil tank heater using the correct external power socket.
  4. Disconnect the battery selector and remove the key.
  5. Close all locks before leaving the machine.

  Note: A turbocharged engine must always be run at about 1000 rpm with reduced load for 2 or 3 minutes before switching off, to allow the turbocharger to cool down.

• What is the correct sequence to change the engine oil and oil filter on one engine alternative?

  Applies to one engine alternative, which uses a full-flow and a by-pass oil filter; a different engine alternative uses a separate oil and filter change procedure, described separately.

  1. Run the engine until warm.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Place a receptacle underneath the engine.
  4. Remove the drain plug on the engine and drain the engine of oil.
  5. Place a receptacle under the oil filters.
  6. Clean the area around the oil filters.
  7. Remove the oil filters.
  8. Install new oil filters, lubricating the O-rings on the new filters with engine oil: tighten the full-flow filter to contact and then another half to three-quarter turn, and the by-pass filter to contact and then another three-quarter to one turn.
  9. Once the oil has drained, install the oil plug, torqued to a maximum of 60 Nm.
  10. Fill with engine oil to the correct volume and grade.
  11. Start the engine, let it idle, and check that the drain plug and filters do not leak.
  12. Turn off the engine and check the oil level, topping up if needed.
  13. Remove the collection container, handling the engine oil and filters as environmentally hazardous waste.

  Notes:

  • Avoid skin contact with the oil; use protective gloves, since hot oil may cause burns, rashes and irritation.
  • Do not tighten the oil plug beyond the specified torque, or the threads will be damaged.

• What is the correct sequence to change the engine oil and oil filter on the other engine alternative?

  Applies to a different engine alternative than the one described separately, which uses a single spin-on oil filter.

  1. Run the engine until warm.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Remove the protective plates over the oil filling point for the engine and transmission.
  4. Place a receptacle underneath the engine.
  5. Remove the drain plug on the engine and drain the engine of oil.
  6. Place a receptacle under the oil filters.
  7. Clean the area around the oil filters.
  8. Remove the oil filter.
  9. Fill the new filter with new engine oil and lubricate the O-ring on the filter with engine oil.
  10. Fit the new filter, tightening according to the instructions on the filter.
  11. Once the oil has drained, install the oil plug, torqued to 88 Nm.
  12. Fill with engine oil to the correct volume and grade.
  13. Start the engine, let it idle, and check that the drain plug and filters do not leak.
  14. Turn off the engine and check the oil level, topping up if needed.
  15. Remove the receptacle, handling the engine oil as environmentally hazardous waste.

  Note: Avoid skin contact with the oil; use protective gloves, since hot oil may cause burns, rashes and irritation.

• How is the engine oil level checked and topped up?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Check the oil level when the engine is warm, wiping off the dipstick before checking; the level should be between the MIN and MAX markings.
  3. Fill engine oil as needed, to the correct volume.
  4. Fill the oil while the engine and oil are at operating temperature, then wait a while and check the dipstick again.

  Notes:

  • Avoid prolonged skin contact with engine oil; use protective gloves.
  • Work carefully when filling to prevent other fluids or particles from contaminating the oil, which risks engine damage.

• What operations are checked on the engine during the 500-hour Type A preventive maintenance service?

  There are four preventive maintenance cards (A, B, C, D) covering the machine's complete maintenance plan, on a 500-hour frequency, cycling in the order B-A-B-C-B-A-B-C-B-D before repeating. Service times assume normal operating conditions and may vary with type of use, road surface, and environment.

  1. Check the alternator's operation with an amp clamp.
  2. Check the tension and wear of the alternator belts.
  3. Check the alternator wiring, cleaning if necessary.
  4. Check the operation of the starter motor(s).
  5. Clean the starter motor(s).
  6. Check the condition of the starter motor(s).
  7. Change the engine oil.
  8. Clean the oil cleaner (engine).
  9. Clean the decanter.
  10. Change the air filter.
  11. Change the engine oil filter(s).
  12. Check the exhaust line.
  13. Check the intake line.
  14. Check the turbo oil circuit.

  Note: Maintenance must be carried out only by qualified, authorised personnel, working in conditions of maximum safety.

• Replacing the fuel prefilter on the engine

  1. Place the fuel container below the filter.
  2. Clean the filter and the area around it.
  3. Open the valve at the bottom, and drain the fluid from the filter into the container.
  4. Remove the filter, and move the water separator to the new filter.
  5. Tighten the new filter into place by hand; do not use a tool for tightening, to prevent damage to the filter.
  6. Start the engine, and check the filter for leaks.

  Note: The fuel is highly flammable: do not smoke or use an open flame when handling it, and avoid skin contact with it (use protective gloves). Do not discharge fuel into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the fuel and the used filter to a hazardous waste collection point.

• Replacing the fuel filter on the engine

  1. Place the fuel container below the filter.
  2. Clean the filter and the area around it.
  3. Remove the filter element; fill the new filter with clean fuel prior to installation.
  4. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to the filter gasket sealing surface.
  5. Install the filter onto the filter head; turn the filter until the gasket contacts the filter head surface, then tighten the filter an additional 3/4 of a turn.
  6. Bleed the fuel system.
  7. Start the engine, and check the filter for leaks.

  Note: The fuel is highly flammable: do not smoke or use an open flame when handling it, and avoid skin contact with it (use protective gloves). Do not discharge fuel into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the fuel to a hazardous waste collection point. Ensure absolute cleanliness, since impurities in fuel cause damage to the system.

• Bleeding the fuel system on the engine

  1. Push the button down on the integrated fuel system module.
  2. Crank the engine until a solid stream of fuel comes out of the port.
  3. Release the button.
  4. Crank the engine for 20 seconds. If the engine does not start within 20 seconds, wait 2 minutes.
  5. Repeat these steps until the engine starts.
  6. Start the engine; after the engine has started, close the valve. If the engine does not start after bleeding, bleed the system again.

  Note: The fuel system is bled using the pressure generated by the feed pump, which moves fuel from the fuel tank. The fuel is highly flammable: do not smoke or use an open flame when handling it, and avoid skin contact with it (use protective gloves).

• Checking the oil level on the engine

  1. Clean the dipstick and check the oil level.
  2. The oil level must be between the marks on the dipstick.
  3. If necessary, add oil through the refilling point (for the oil type, see the technical data chapter).

  Note: Ensure absolute cleanliness; impurities in oil cause damage to the system. The engine must be turned off at least 30 minutes before the inspection.

• Changing the oil on the engine

  1. Run the engine until it is warm.
  2. Drain the oil with the hand pump into a container.
  3. Fill the engine with oil through the filler point until the oil level is between the marks on the dipstick (for the oil volume and type, see the technical data chapter).
  4. Run the engine for about 30 seconds, and check the oil level; refill if necessary.

  Note: Avoid skin contact with oil; use protective gloves. Do not discharge oil into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the oil and the used filter to a hazardous waste collection point. Take care to ensure absolute cleanliness; impurities in oil cause damage to the system.

• Installing a powershift transmission converter drive plate onto the engine flywheel

  1. Position the drive plate and weld nut assembly on the impeller cover, with the weld nuts toward the cover.
  2. Align the intermediate drive plate and backing ring with the holes in the impeller cover; the two dimples 180 degrees apart in the backing ring must face out, toward the engine flywheel.
  3. Install the capscrews and tighten them to 52-57 ft-lb torque (70.4-77.1 N.m).

  Note: Identify the correct drive plate kit by measuring the bolt circle diameter of the flywheel. Assembly of the flexplates must be completed within a 15-minute period from the start of screw installation; if a screw is removed for any reason it must be replaced with a new one, and the adhesive left in the tapped holes must be removed with the proper tap and cleaned with solvent, then the hole dried thoroughly before reinstallation.

• Installing a powershift transmission converter onto the engine

  1. Remove all burrs from the flywheel mounting face and nose pilot bore; clean the drive plate surface with solvent and dry it thoroughly.
  2. Check the engine flywheel and housing for conformance to the standard SAE #3 - SAE J-927 and J-1033 tolerance specifications for pilot bore size, pilot bore runout and mounting face flatness; measure and record the engine crankshaft end play.
  3. Install two 3.50 in (88.90 mm) long converter-to-flywheel-housing guide studs in the engine flywheel housing; rotate the engine flywheel to align a drive plate mounting screw hole with the flywheel housing access hole.
  4. Install a 4.00 in (101.60 mm) long drive plate locating stud in a drive plate nut; align the locating stud in the drive plate with the flywheel drive plate mounting screw hole positioned in the previous step.
  5. Locate the converter on the flywheel housing, aligning the drive plate to the flywheel and the converter to the flywheel housing.
  6. Install the converter-to-flywheel-housing screws and tighten to the specified torque; remove the converter-to-engine guide studs, then install the remaining screws and tighten to the specified torque.
  7. Remove the drive plate locating stud.
  8. Install the drive plate attaching screw, snug but not tight. Rotate the engine flywheel and install the remaining seven flywheel-to-drive-plate attaching screws, snug but not tight. After all eight screws are installed, tighten each capscrew to the specified torque for the M-10 capscrews, rotating the flywheel as needed until all eight screws are tightened.
  9. Measure the crankshaft end play again after the converter has been completely installed; this value must be within 0.001 in (0.025 mm) of the end play recorded earlier.

Lubrication & seals

• How and how often should motor oil level be checked?

  Periodicity: every day

  1. Check the motor oil level every day.
  2. The oil level must be maintained between the "H" (high) and "L" (low) marks, as close to the "H" mark as possible.

  Notes:

  • Never operate the engine with the oil level below the "L" mark or above the "H" mark.
  • A 15-minute drain-back time is required if the engine has been running.

• What is the correct sequence to remove oil from the skin after handling used engine oil?

  1. Wash the affected part abundantly with water and soap.
  2. A nail brush can be useful.
  3. Use a special hand cleaner to clean the hands.
  4. Never use petrol, diesel fuel or paraffin for washing.

  Notes:

  • Avoid prolonged, excessive or repeated contact of used oils with the skin.
  • Apply a protective layer of cream on the skin before handling used engine oil.

• How should the engine oil level be checked daily?

  Periodicity: every day

  1. Check that the oil level in the sump is between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick, and top up through the filler fitting if necessary.

  Notes:

  • The check must be performed with the engine off and cold, and the vehicle on level ground, to ensure an accurate dipstick reading.
  • The level must never be above the MAX mark or below the MIN mark; drain excess oil through the sump drain plug if necessary.

• What is the correct sequence to change the engine oil?

  The engine oil change must be performed with the engine warm.

  Periodicity: first change at 100 hours on a new engine

  1. Switch off the engine, remove the drain plug and sump gasket, and drain the oil into a suitable container.
  2. Withdraw the level dipstick.
  3. Let the oil drain completely from the sump.
  4. Check that the gasket is not damaged, otherwise replace it.
  5. Clean the drain plug's gasket seat, the threads, and any magnet on the plug.
  6. Refit the drain plug with its gasket.
  7. Pour in new oil through the filler hole after removing its cap.
  8. Refit the level dipstick and close the filler cap, then start the engine briefly and check for oil leaks.

  Notes:

  • On a new engine, the first oil change must be carried out after the first 100 hours of operation.
  • At every engine oil change, also replace the filter cartridges.

• What is the correct sequence to replace the engine oil filter?

  1. Place a container under the filter to collect spilled lubricating oil.
  2. Unscrew the filter using the specific wrench, then carefully clean the filter seat on its support.
  3. Lubricate the new filter's gasket with clean engine oil.
  4. Fill the new filter with clean engine oil, taking care not to let impurities enter the circuit.
  5. Screw on the new filter by hand until the gasket contacts the support, being careful not to pinch it, then tighten a further 1/2 to 3/4 turn, no more.
  6. Start the engine briefly and check for oil leaks.

  Notes:

  • The filter must be replaced no later than the frequency indicated in the preventive maintenance schedule; a blocked filter means the circulating oil is no longer filtered.
  • On a new engine, the first filter change must be carried out after the first 100 hours of operation.
  • Only use original filter cartridges, since the filter may contain a special valve and tube to prevent oil draining back out of the filter.

• What is the correct sequence to clean the engine oil centrifugal purifier?

  Periodicity: every 500 hours, and in any case at every oil change

  1. Unscrew the nut and remove the cover.
  2. Withdraw the rotor from the purifier and loosen the support nut of the bowl, turning it 3 turns; if the nut will not unscrew, clamp it (never the rotor) in a vice and turn the rotor 3 turns by hand or with a screwdriver.
  3. Tap the nut lightly with the hand or a plastic hammer so the rotor bowl separates from the base.
  4. Remove the nut and the rotor bowl, then carefully separate the filter from the base.
  5. Scrape the inside of the bowl and remove the impurities.
  6. Clean all parts with diesel fuel or specific cleaning products.
  7. Fit the O-ring into the bowl and check it is not damaged, otherwise replace it.
  8. Reassemble the rotor.
  9. Screw the rotor nut on by hand.
  10. Refit the rotor into the purifier and check it rotates correctly, without obstruction.
  11. Check again that the O-ring in the bowl is not pinched or damaged, otherwise replace it.
  12. Refit the purifier cover and tighten the nut firmly by hand.

  Notes:

  • If no impurity deposits are found inside the rotor bowl, this means the purifier is not working correctly.
  • If impurity deposits inside the rotor bowl reach a thickness of about 20 mm, clean more frequently and also change the oil and filter more frequently.
  • Open the rotor bowl carefully, as hot oil causes burns.
  • Do not tighten the rotor nut with a wrench, or the rotor shaft, nut or bowl could be damaged.

• How is the oil purifier tested to confirm it is working after cleaning?

  1. Switch off the engine while it is warm.
  2. Listen for a humming sound from the rotor, or touch the purifier housing with a hand to check whether it is vibrating.

  Note: The rotor spins very fast and should continue to rotate for a while even after the engine has stopped.

Exhaust System

• What is the correct sequence to clean the exhaust-gas cleaner?

  Periodicity: An iterative check-up for carbonization should be made approximately twice a year; dismount and clean the exhaust-gas cleaner if necessary.

  1. Loosen the tube clamps and remove the cleaner.
  2. Dry-brush the cleaner on the intake side.
  3. Clean with pressurized air from the exhaust side.
  4. Soak the cleaner in soap water for at least one hour.
  5. Clean with pressurized air from the exhaust side again.
  6. Clean with high-pressure water (0.3 MPa max) from the exhaust side.
  7. Dry with pressurized air.

• What is the correct sequence to check the exhaust system?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Check the exhaust system's sealing and other wear.
  3. Check that the exhaust system suspension is intact.

  Note: Never touch the turbo, exhaust pipe, silencer or catalytic converters when the machine is in operation or has recently been switched off, due to risk of burn injuries.

• What is the correct sequence to check the exhaust system?

  1. Check the entire exhaust gas line, verifying there are no cracks or breaks in the rigid or flexible pipes.
  2. Check the tightness of the hose clamps.

• What is the correct sequence to clean the catalytic converter?

  The catalytic converter, when fitted, sits in the exhaust circuit between the engine and the exhaust cleaner.

  1. Loosen the clamps to open the converter.
  2. Soak it in a neutral detergent for 8-9 hours.
  3. Clean it with a reverse air jet or steam.

  Note: Let the converter cool down before working on it.

• What is the correct sequence to remove and disassemble the exhaust system?

  The exhaust system should be disassembled only to the extent necessary to carry out the repair.

  1. Remove the clamp on the turbocharger, the large clamp connected to its support, and the exhaust assembly.
  2. Remove the two exhaust clamps, the pipe, and the flex tubing.
  3. Remove the two large clamps connected to their supports, and the exhaust pipes.
  4. Remove the bolts and open the clamps to free the silencer, then remove the remaining clamp and the silencer.
  5. Remove the clamp and the pipe.
  6. Remove the two large clamps connected to their supports, the clamp, and the exhaust terminals.
  7. Remove the exhaust system components to a prepared storage area.

• What is the correct sequence to reassemble and install the exhaust system?

  Installation is achieved by reversing the removal procedure.

  1. Repair or replace any parts that are no longer serviceable.
  2. Install the exhaust system by reversing the removal procedure.
  3. Apply the proper torque values from the manual's torque table.

Belts

• What is the correct sequence to check the engine V-belt tension?

  The engines are equipped with an automatic belt tensioner which maintains the belt tension constant.

  1. Check at regular intervals that the V-belts are correctly tensioned.
  2. Verify it is not possible to depress the V-belt more than 10-12 mm mid-way between the pulleys.

  Note: If the belt drive consists of two belts, always change both belts.

• What is the correct sequence to check the drive belts on one of the machine's engine alternatives?

  Applies to one engine alternative, with a belt-deflection tolerance of 10-15 mm at 40-50 N pressure; the other engine alternative uses a different tolerance (approximately 3-4 mm) and has automatic belt tensioners, described separately.

  1. Warm up the machine.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Fold up the hood.
  4. Check the belts' condition and tension, changing when needed.
  5. Close the hood.

  Notes:

  • Always change a drive belt that looks worn or has cracks; transverse cracks are acceptable, but longitudinal cracks intersected by transverse cracks are not.
  • Check belts after operating, while they are still warm.

• What is the correct sequence to change the drive belts on one of the machine's engine alternatives?

  Applies to one engine alternative, which has three separate belts (AC, fan and drive/alternator belt) tensioned manually; the other engine alternative uses a single automatic-tensioner belt, described separately.

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Fold up the hood.
  3. Release the AC belt's tension by loosening the AC compressor's attaching bolts.
  4. Remove the AC belt.
  5. Release the fan belt's tension by loosening the lock nut at the belt pulley and releasing the tensioning screw on the belt tensioner.
  6. Remove the fan belts.
  7. Release the drive belt's tension by loosening the alternator's attaching bolts.
  8. Change the drive belt, checking it is aligned correctly in the grooves.
  9. Tighten the drive belt and tighten the attaching bolts to the specified torque, checking the deflection tolerance between the water pump and alternator.
  10. Position the fan belts in the pulley grooves, changing them if necessary.
  11. Tension the fan belts and tighten the belt tensioner's lock nut, checking the deflection tolerance between the drive belts.
  12. Position the AC belt in the pulley grooves, changing it if necessary.
  13. Tension the AC belt and tighten the lock nut, checking the deflection tolerance.
  14. Close the hood.

• What is the correct sequence to change the drive belt on the other engine alternative?

  Applies to the engine alternative with a single spring-loaded automatic belt tensioner.

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Fold up the hood.
  3. Lift up the belt tensioner to remove the drive belt, rotating it to tighten the spring more firmly to reduce belt tension.
  4. Lift up the belt tensioner and fit the new drive belt, first placing it in the grooved belt pulley and prying it over the coolant pump's belt pulley if it seems too short.
  5. Release the belt tensioner and check that the belt sits correctly in the grooves and is correctly tensioned.
  6. Close the hood.

  Note: Do not use excessive force in either winding direction once the tensioner has been wound to its positive stop, since continued winding can cause the tensioner arm to break.

• What is the correct sequence to check the drive belt tensioner on the other engine alternative?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Check that neither the lower nor upper tension lever stop touches the cast stop lugs on the belt tensioner's housing; if it does, replace the drive belt and check the correct belt is used.
  3. Check for cracks on the drive belt tensioner's wheels or levers, replacing the tensioner if cracks are found.
  4. Check for dirt deposits built up on the drive belt tensioner; if found, remove and steam clean the tensioner.
  5. Remove the drive belt.
  6. Check that the lower tension lever stop is in contact with the lower stop lug on the belt tensioner housing; replace the tensioner if they are not in contact.
  7. Check the tensioner for wear and damage between the tension wheel and the tension lever radius, replacing it if the centre bearing shows signs of wear.
  8. Check pulley alignment with a straight edge and clinometer if the belt tensioner is slack or the belt wanders off the pulleys; the pulleys must not be more than 3 degrees out of alignment.
  9. Install the drive belt.

Lubrication

• What is the correct sequence to change the engine oil and oil filter?

  Before draining the oil, make sure it is at normal working temperature.

  1. Remove the drain plug from the underside of the sump and drain the oil.
  2. Clean the area around the filters and place a tray under the filters to collect any spillage.
  3. Remove and discard the disposable filter canisters.
  4. Pour clean oil into the centre of the new filters, wait until the oil has seeped through the filter paper, and top up until the filters are full.
  5. Lubricate the canister seals with oil.
  6. Fit the new filters and tighten them by hand only.
  7. Fill the engine with oil to the specified grade.
  8. Run the engine and check that no oil leaks at the filters.
  9. Stop the engine and check the oil level after a few minutes, topping up as necessary to the MAX level on the dipstick.

  Note: To avoid serious damage to the engine, use only genuine replacement filters.

• What is the correct sequence to change the engine oil and oil filters on one of the machine's engine alternatives?

  1. Run the engine until warm.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Fold up the hood.
  4. Remove the drain plug from the engine and drain the engine of oil.
  5. Remove the oil filters.
  6. Install new oil filters, lubricating the O-rings with engine oil and installing according to the filter's instructions.
  7. Fit the drain plug once the oil has drained, tightening to the specified torque (27-34 Nm).
  8. Fill with engine oil to the specified volume and grade.
  9. Start the engine and let it idle.
  10. Turn off the engine and check the oil level, topping up as needed.
  11. Close the hood.

  Note: Do not tighten the oil plug beyond the specified torque, or the threads will be damaged.

• What is the correct sequence to change the engine oil and oil filter on the other engine alternative?

  1. Run the engine until warm.
  2. Put the machine in service position.
  3. Fold up the hood.
  4. Remove the drain plug from the engine and drain the engine of oil.
  5. Remove the oil filter with the filter tool.
  6. Brush a little oil on the new filter's rubber gasket.
  7. Check that the contact face on the filter bracket is clean and free of gasket remains from the old filter.
  8. Spin on the new filter by hand until the rubber gasket touches the contact face, then turn one more full turn only.
  9. Once the oil has drained, install the oil plug with a new gasket, torque tightening to the specified maximum.
  10. Fill with engine oil to the specified volume and grade.
  11. Start the engine, let it idle, and check that the oil pressure is normal.
  12. Turn off the engine and check the oil level, topping up as needed.
  13. Close the hood.

  Note: Do not tighten the oil plug beyond the specified torque (max 80 Nm), or the threads will be damaged.

• What is the correct sequence to check the engine oil level on either engine alternative?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Check the oil level when the engine has been warmed up: the dipstick has MAX and MIN markings, between which the oil level should sit; wipe off the dipstick before checking.
  3. Fill engine oil at the filling point if needed.
  4. Fill, wait a while, then check again on the oil dipstick.

  Notes:

  • Wear gloves, since the oil dipstick is long.
  • Work carefully when filling, to prevent other fluids or particles from contaminating the oil and risking engine damage.

Coolant

• What is the correct sequence to check and top up the coolant level?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Fold up the hood.
  3. If needed, top up the expansion tank with ready-mixed recommended coolant at the filling point.
  4. Close the hood.

  Notes:

  • The cooling system is pressurised; open the filler cap very carefully when the engine is warm, and wait until the coolant has cooled before topping up, due to risk of scalding and burn injuries.
  • Different types of coolant must not be mixed; when changing or topping up coolant, only use the same type used before, to avoid engine and cooling system damage.

• What is the correct sequence to check the coolant quality on the other engine alternative?

  Only use test equipment appropriate for the coolant type used in the machine, since coolant type differs depending on the engine alternative.

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Fold up the hood.
  3. Check the coolant's quality with test strips designed for coolant quality checking.
  4. Change the coolant if the test indicates poor quality.
  5. Close the hood.

  Note: The cooling system is pressurised; open the filler cap very carefully when the engine is warm, and wait until the coolant has cooled before topping up, due to risk of scalding and burn injuries.

• What is the correct sequence to change the coolant on one of the machine's engine alternatives?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Fold up the hood.
  3. Remove the cap on the expansion tank.
  4. Place a container under the radiator and engine (the cooling system holds approximately 40 litres).
  5. Drain the cooling system by opening the drain valve on the lower part of the radiator, collecting the coolant in the container.
  6. Connect a hose to the drain cock on the engine and route the other end into the container.
  7. Open the drain valve on the engine.
  8. Once all the coolant has drained, close the drain taps.
  9. Fill with new ready-mixed coolant of the correct type in the expansion tank.
  10. Turn on the system voltage and start the engine.
  11. Set the cab heat to max.
  12. Run the engine warm so the thermostat opens and coolant is pumped through the whole system, without operating the machine.
  13. Check the level in the expansion tank, filling if necessary.
  14. Close the hood.
  15. Check the coolant level again after 10 operating hours.

  Note: Different types of coolant must not be mixed; when changing or topping up coolant, only use the same type used before, to avoid engine and cooling system damage.

• What is the correct sequence to change the coolant on the other engine alternative?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Fold up the hood.
  3. Remove the cap on the expansion tank.
  4. Place a container under the radiator and engine (the cooling system holds approximately 40 litres).
  5. Drain the cooling system by opening the drain valve on the lower part of the radiator, collecting the coolant in the container.
  6. Open the drain point on the engine.
  7. Once all the coolant has drained, close the drain taps.
  8. Fill with new ready-mixed coolant of the correct type in the expansion tank.
  9. Turn on the system voltage and start the engine.
  10. Set the cab heat to max.
  11. Run the engine warm so the thermostat opens and coolant is pumped through the whole system.
  12. Check the level in the expansion tank, filling if necessary.
  13. Close the hood.
  14. Check the coolant level again after 10 operating hours.

  Note: Different types of coolant must not be mixed; when changing or topping up coolant, only use the same type used before, to avoid engine and cooling system damage.

• Checking the coolant level on the engine

  1. Open the cap of the coolant tank carefully.
  2. The coolant should be at the level of the cap hole.
  3. If necessary, add coolant using the filling pump.

  Note: Do not open the radiator cap when the engine is hot: steam or hot coolant may be discharged from the radiator and cause burns. Open the cap carefully, and wait for the fluid to cool down before adding fluid. The engine must be turned off at least 30 minutes before the inspection.

• Changing the coolant filter on the engine

  1. Open the radiator pressure cap.
  2. Remove and discard the coolant filter.
  3. Clean the gasket surface of the filter head.
  4. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to the filter gasket sealing surface before installing the filter.
  5. Tighten the coolant filter 1/2 of a turn after initial gasket contact. After installing the coolant filter, the ON mark on the coolant filter collar must be properly aligned.
  6. Install the radiator cap. Operate the machine until the coolant temperature is above 82 degrees C (180 degrees F), and check for coolant leaks. After the air has been purged from the system, check the coolant level again.

  Note: Open the cap of the tank carefully when the engine is warm: steam or hot coolant may be discharged from the radiator and cause burns; be careful when draining the cooling system, since coolant at operating temperature may cause burns. Do not discharge coolant into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the coolant to a hazardous waste collection point. While changing the coolant filter, the on/off valve must be in the OFF position, so that coolant flow is cut off to and from the coolant filter.

• Changing the coolant and flushing the cooling system on the engine

  1. Open the radiator pressure cap carefully.
  2. Drain the coolant into the container through the drain valve.
  3. Use the hand pump to fill the system with clean, hot water mixed with radiator cleaner, following the radiator cleaner manufacturer's instructions.
  4. Fill the system with new coolant (for the coolant type, see the technical data chapter). The coolant should be at the level of the cap hole; add coolant using the filling pump. The engine must be turned off at least 30 minutes before checking the coolant level.

  Note: Open the cap of the tank carefully when the engine is warm: steam or hot coolant may be discharged from the radiator and cause burns; be careful when draining the cooling system, since coolant at operating temperature may cause burns. Do not discharge coolant into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the coolant to a hazardous waste collection point.

Air Intake

• What is the correct sequence to change the air cleaner's main filter element?

  Check the pressure drop indicator when the engine is running; if it shows red, the main filter element must be changed. Changing it too early does not improve collection efficiency, but delaying the change increases smoke emission and risks engine damage.

  1. Stop the engine.
  2. Clean the outside of the air cleaner.
  3. Remove and clean the dust receiver.
  4. Release and carefully remove the main filter element, without removing the safety filter element.
  5. Fit a new main filter element, carefully checking that it is not damaged, and note on the safety filter element when the main element was replaced.
  6. Change the safety filter element after the main filter element has been changed five times, at least every other year, if the indicator shows red after the main element has been changed, or if the engine has been run with the main element damaged.

  Notes:

  • The safety filter element must not be cleaned and reused, and the engine must not be run without the main filter element.
  • If the main element must be cleaned and refitted in an emergency, do not use compressed air to clean it, since the filter element may be damaged; carefully check that it is undamaged before refitting.

• What is the correct sequence to change the air filter?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Clean the outside of the air filter housing.
  3. Remove the cap from the air filter housing.
  4. Remove the filter cartridge.
  5. Clean the dust reservoir.
  6. Check the safety insert and change it as needed (it should be changed every other time the main filter insert is changed).
  7. Fit a new filter insert, without cleaning and reusing the old one.
  8. Fit the cover to the air cleaner casing.
  9. Check that the hoses from the air filter housing are intact and sealed.
  10. Reset the indicator.

• What is the correct sequence to remove the air intake system?

  Remove only the parts necessary to carry out the needed repairs. The air intake system has a two-stage air cleaner with a primary element and a safety element.

  1. Open the left side engine compartment door and remove the main clamps from their support.
  2. Remove all clamps, elbows, and the connecting tube.
  3. Remove the remaining clamps, tube, and elbows.
  4. Remove the clamps, elbows, and tubes.
  5. Open the air cleaner if it is necessary to replace air cleaner components.

Radiator

• What is the correct sequence to clean the radiator externally?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Clean the radiator with compressed air, without using a high pressure wash.
  3. Check that the cooling flanges are intact.

• What is the correct sequence to remove the engine cooling radiator?

  1. Remove the engine cover.
  2. Obtain a suitable container to catch the cooling fluid, and remove the drain plug to drain the cooling system.
  3. Once completely drained, disconnect the hoses by removing their clamps.
  4. Remove the bolt with washer to remove the conveyor.
  5. Remove the bolts to remove the fixing bar.
  6. Remove the bolts with washers to disconnect the radiator from its support.
  7. If the radiator needs replacing, remove its mounting bolts with washers and carefully remove it.

  Note: Dispose of the cooling fluid according to local and federal regulations.

• What is the correct sequence to install the engine cooling radiator and adjust the fan clearance?

  1. Install the radiator and oil coolers by reversing the removal procedure.
  2. Use the slots in the fan plate to adjust its position so the clearance distances on both sides are equal, then tighten the fan plate's bolt.
  3. Fill the radiator once installation is complete.
  4. Operate the engine up to normal operating temperature, then shut it down.
  5. Once cool, recheck the coolant level and replenish as necessary.
  6. Check the transmission oil level and add oil as necessary to bring it to full, checking connections for leaks.
  7. Check the hydraulic fluid level and add fluid as necessary to bring it to full, checking connections for leaks.

  Note: The radiator cap is a sealing cap; be sure it is installed securely.

• External cleaning of the radiator on the engine

  1. Clean the radiator with a steam cleaner.
  2. Rinse the radiator with running water. Do not use high pressure; this might damage the radiator.

Valve Clearance

• What is the correct sequence to check and adjust the engine valve clearances?

  1. Turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation until the inlet valve of cylinder No. 6 has just opened and the exhaust valve of the same cylinder has not yet closed fully.
  2. Check the valve clearances on cylinder No. 1 and adjust as necessary.
  3. Check the other valves in the same way, following the firing order sequence.

  Note: Never attempt to check the valve clearances when the engine is running; the engine must be stationary and cold.

• What is the correct sequence to check and adjust the valve clearances on one of the machine's engine alternatives?

  Coolant temperature must be below 60°C before starting.

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Disconnect the system voltage with the battery disconnector.
  3. Carefully clean all attachments, mountings and joints with compressed air to remove loose particles.
  4. Release the injectors' drain hose from the rear of the rocker cover and remove the screws attaching the drain hose to the rocker cover.
  5. Remove the mounting screws and insulators from the valve cover.
  6. Remove the valve cover, leaving the rocker cover gasket in place if it sits in a groove (it can be reused); replace it if it is damaged or has been removed.
  7. Check the rubber insulators for cracks and replace them if cracked or damaged.
  8. Using the special tool, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder no. 1 is at top dead centre, determined via the vibration damper's crankshaft speed indicator ring; if the valve lifters for cylinder 1 are not loose, rotate the crankshaft a further 360 degrees.
  9. With the engine in this position, check the clearance of the specified first group of valves, comparing it against the tolerance range for intake and outlet valves.
  10. Measure each valve clearance with a feeler gauge between the top of the push rod and the seat of the valve lifter; if it does not correspond to specification, loosen the lock nut, adjust to the correct value, then tighten the lock nut to the specified torque and re-check.
  11. Using the special tool, rotate the crankshaft a further 360 degrees and repeat the clearance check and adjustment for the second group of valves.
  12. Reinstall the valve cover with its insulators and mounting screws, tightening to the specified torque.
  13. Lubricate the O-ring on the drain hose connection with clean engine oil.
  14. Fit the injectors' drain hose on the rocker cover, tightening the screws to the specified torque.
  15. Close the battery disconnector.
  16. Start the engine and check sealing.

• Removing water from the fuel water separator on the engine

  1. Place the fuel container below the filter.
  2. Loosen the drain valve nut completely so that the valve drops down from the filter about 25 mm (1 inch); drain the water and sediment out.
  3. Retighten the drain valve nut when clean fuel is draining out.

  Note: The fuel is highly flammable: do not smoke or use an open flame when handling it, and avoid skin contact with it (use protective gloves). Do not discharge fuel into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the fuel to a hazardous waste collection point.

• Cleaning the fuel tank on the engine

  1. Drain the fuel tank into the container through the drain valve.
  2. Rinse the tank with clean fuel.
  3. Close the valve, and fill the tank.

  Note: The fuel is highly flammable: do not smoke or use an open flame when handling it, and avoid skin contact with it (use protective gloves). Do not discharge fuel into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the fuel to a hazardous waste collection point.

• Adjusting the valve clearances and unit injector rocker arms on the engine

  1. Locate the valve set marks on the outside of the vibration damper. The set marks are A, B and C: set to mark A to adjust cylinders 1 or 6; set to mark B to adjust cylinders 2 or 5; set to mark C to adjust cylinders 3 or 4. Two complete revolutions are required to set all valves and injectors.
  2. Identify cylinder numbering and rotation: the crankshaft rotation is clockwise as viewed from the front of the engine; the cylinders are numbered from the front of the engine (1-2-3-4-5-6); the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Each cylinder has four rocker levers: the exhaust valve rocker lever, the injector rocker lever, the intake valve rocker lever, and the engine brake rocker lever. The valves and injectors on the same cylinder are adjusted at the same index mark on the vibration damper.
  3. Access the barring device: remove one capscrew and loosen the second capscrew, then rotate the cover.
  4. Use a 1-1/2-inch socket, and bar the engine over counterclockwise; rock the barring device back and forth until it disengages.
  5. Rotate the air compressor drive in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise); align the A mark on the vibration damper with the pointer on the gear cover. It is not necessary to start with position A, as long as the proper sequence is followed.
  6. Check the valve rocker levers on the given cylinder to see if both exhaust valves are closed (both valves are closed when both rocker levers are loose). If both valves are not closed, rotate the compressor drive gear one complete revolution, and align the A mark on the front damper with the pointer again.
  7. Loosen the injector adjusting screw locknut on the cylinder.
  8. Use a dial-type torque wrench with a range of 0 to 150 in-lb to tighten the injector rocker lever adjusting screw; do not use a click-type torque wrench. If the screw chatters during setting, repair the screw and lever as required. Back out the adjusting screw one or two turns, and hold the torque wrench in a position that allows you to look directly at the dial so it can be read accurately.
  9. Make sure the parts are aligned, and squeeze the oil out of the valve and injector train by tightening the adjusting screw; use this initial adjustment to preload the valve train and injector.
  10. Tighten the injector adjusting screw to a torque value of 8 N.m [70 in-lb].
  11. Tighten the injector lever adjusting screw to a torque value of 8 N.m [70 in-lb].
  12. Hold the injector lever adjusting screw, and tighten the adjusting screw locknut to a torque value of 75 N.m [55 ft-lb].
  13. After setting the injector on a cylinder, set the valves on the same cylinder: with the set mark aligned with the pointer on the gear cover and both valves closed on the cylinder, loosen the locknuts on the intake and exhaust valve adjusting screws, and back out the adjusting screws one or two turns.
  14. Select a feeler gauge for the correct valve lash specification: intake 0.36 mm [0.014 in], exhaust 0.69 mm [0.027 in]. Insert the feeler gauge between the top of the crosshead and the rocker lever nose pad.
  15. Tighten the adjusting screw to a torque value of 0.6 N.m [5 in-lb]. Hold the adjusting screw in this position; it must not turn when the locknut is tightened. Tighten the locknut to a torque value of 45 N.m [33 ft-lb].
  16. After tightening the locknut to the correct torque value, remove the feeler gauge.
  17. Repeat the process to adjust all injectors and valves, following the same cylinder sequence used for the first cylinder.

  Note: Adjustments must be performed when the engine is cold (stabilized coolant temperature at 60 degrees C [140 degrees F] or below); let the engine cool down for at least 30 minutes after use. Batteries can emit explosive gases: always ventilate the compartment before servicing them, remove the negative battery cable first, and attach the negative battery cable last when reconnecting. Disconnect the battery before starting. Adjust the valves, injectors and engine brake every 3,000 hours, and also after any major repair (after a major repair, the adjustment interval again becomes every 3,000 hours). Do not use solvent to clean the rocker cover gasket, since solvent can damage the gasket material and cause it to swell.

Turbocharger

• What preventive maintenance checks protect the turbocharger from damage?

  1. Check that the engine air inlet system is in good condition: that the air cleaner is clean, that no hoses are worn, and that hose connections are not defective, since a defect can let oil seep past the seals on the compressor side and be drawn in by the inlet air, which may lead to high exhaust gas temperatures and turbine shaft bearing overheating.
  2. Change the lubricating oil and filter at the specified intervals, and regularly check that the lubricating oil lines to the turbocharger are in good condition and do not leak, and that the oil pressure is not too low.
  3. Ensure the fuel system is serviced at the specified intervals, since inadequate fuel supply from clogged fuel filters or incorrect injection pump setting reduces turbocharger speed and engine output.
  4. Check that there are no restrictions in the crankcase ventilation, since a blocked vent can build up pressure and force oil into the turbocharger's and engine's inlet air system.

  Note: Never run the engine with the air inlet or exhaust pipes disconnected from the turbocharger, since personnel could sustain injuries.

• What is the correct sequence to check the turbocharger on one of the machine's engine alternatives?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Fold up the hood.
  3. Disconnect the inlet pipe from the turbo.
  4. Check that the impeller rotates freely and that the axial clearance is a maximum of 1 mm, replacing or overhauling the turbocharger in case of deviations.
  5. Connect the inlet pipe to the turbo.
  6. Close the hood.

Intercooler

• What is the correct sequence to check the intercooler?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Fold up the hood.
  3. Clean the intercooler with compressed air, without using a high pressure wash.
  4. Check that the intercooler suspension is intact.
  5. Check the sealing and check that the intercooler's hoses and clamps are in good condition.
  6. Close the hood.

• What is the correct sequence to check the charge-air pipes on one of the machine's engine alternatives?

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Check the charge-air pipes, hose connections, and the condition of the clamps for visible cracks and external damage, since damaged pipes or leaking connections reduce boost pressure and engine power.
  3. Check that there is no oil inside the charge-air pipes; oil indicates leakage at the turbo's turbine shaft seal and requires replacing the whole turbocharger, and if oil is found in the intercooler hoses, carefully clean the intercooler and all pipes and hoses on the inside before the engine is started.

Engine Removal

• What is the correct sequence to disconnect and remove the engine?

  1. Remove the panels on the top side of the vehicle chassis to access the engine, removing nuts, flat washers and bolts with washers.
  2. Remove the panels on the chassis right side and remove the assembly to a prepared work area, for complete access to the engine.
  3. Remove the gearbox oil cooling system by disconnecting the relevant hydraulic connections.
  4. Disconnect the electrical connections by removing the connector or the coils.
  5. Disconnect the sensor cable.
  6. Remove the gearbox support brackets.
  7. Disconnect the engine-gearbox fitting.
  8. Remove the hydraulic pumps, to free the engine.
  9. Attach a suitable hoisting device to the lifting eyes.
  10. Manoeuvre the engine back away from the transmission, then slowly raise it, watching for any hoses, cables or wires that may become entangled.
  11. Once clear, manoeuvre the engine back, up and out of the machine to a prepared and suitable work area.

  Notes:

  • Do not depend on the service brakes, parking brake, or both, to hold the machine stationary when personnel must work underneath it; park on a level surface and block the wheels.
  • Before removing hydraulic connections, drain the machine's hydraulic system completely, by pumping the brake pedal.
  • Before removing the gearbox supports, lean the engine on a suitable support, otherwise it can fall to the ground.
  • Engines are top-heavy and very unstable; make sure the removed engine is solidly secured to prevent it from toppling over onto personnel.

• What is the correct sequence to install the engine?

  Installation is achieved by following the removal and disconnection procedures in reverse order, with the following additional steps.

  1. Always replace the rubber mounts when the engine is removed.
  2. Apply the specified torque values from the manual's torque table to all nuts and bolts when installing the engine.
  3. Fill the coolant system with approved coolant before operating the engine.
  4. Make sure the crankcase has been filled with the specified type of oil before operating the engine.
  5. Adjust the accelerator linkage so the engine idles with no pressure on the accelerator pedal, and rpm increases from idle to full governed rpm as the pedal is depressed.
  6. Operate the engine and bring it to normal operating temperature, checking the coolant level and hose connections, fuel line connections, and oil line connections for leaks.
  7. Check the air intake duct for leaks.

• Replacing the oil filter on the engine

  1. Place a container below the filter for the oil that flows out.
  2. Clean the filter and the area around it.
  3. Remove the filter.
  4. Lubricate the rubber seal of the new filter with a small amount of engine oil.
  5. Tighten the new filter element into place, an additional 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts the filter head surface. Make sure the old o-ring is removed from the filter head. If the lubricating oil filter head adapter comes off during removal, reinstall it using a small amount of thread-locking compound on the threads.
  6. Start the engine, and check the filter for leaks.

  Note: Avoid skin contact with oil; use protective gloves. Do not discharge oil into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the oil and the used filter to a hazardous waste collection point. Ensure absolute cleanliness; impurities in oil cause damage to the system.

Other Engine & Cooling procedures

• What is the correct sequence to check the vibration damper on one of the machine's engine alternatives?

  1. Check that the index lines on the vibration damper hub and the outer section are in line with each other, replacing the damper if the deviation exceeds 1.59 mm.
  2. Check the rubber part for signs of wear, replacing the damper if any rubber is missing or its surface is more than 3.18 mm below the metal surface.
  3. Check that the damper ring cannot move longitudinally in relation to the hub, replacing the damper if it can.

• What is the correct sequence to check the fan hub on the other engine alternative?

  The fan hub must rotate without wobbling or excessive length clearance (maximum 0.15 mm permissible).

  1. Put the machine in service position.
  2. Remove the drive belt.
  3. Check the fan hub's length clearance against the permissible maximum.

• What is the correct sequence to check the flywheel and housing tolerances after removing the engine or transmission?

  Perform whenever either the engine or transmission is removed, especially if a ring gear failure has occurred.

  1. Securely clamp (or use a magnetic base) the dial indicator base on the engine flywheel to check the flywheel housing bore eccentricity and face deviation.
  2. With the dial arm tip against the flywheel housing face, rotate the engine flywheel and check that the total indicator reading does not exceed the specified limit for the flywheel housing diameter.
  3. With the dial arm tip against the flywheel housing pilot bore, rotate the engine flywheel and check that the total indicator reading does not exceed the specified limit.
  4. Mount the dial indicator base to the flywheel housing with the arm tip against the coupling gear mounting surface, rotate the flywheel, and check the total indicator reading does not exceed 0.005 in.
  5. With the dial indicator arm tip against the flywheel coupling gear pilot counterbore, rotate the flywheel and check the total indicator reading does not exceed 0.005 in.
  6. Resurface, rebore, or replace any flywheel or housing found out of tolerance.
  7. Check and record the engine crankshaft end play, per the engine manufacturer's specification.
  8. Use guide pins in the engine flywheel housing and install the converter, tightening the converter-to-flywheel-housing bolts evenly and to the specified torque.
  9. Check the engine crankshaft end play again after the converter is mounted, confirming it matches the value measured before installation.

  Note: Before making any indicator reading, be certain that the engine cannot fire or start while rotating the flywheel.

Looking for general maintenance tips and checklists? See Engine & Cooling.