Hoisting Ropes & Winches Procedures
This page lists 18 maintenance procedures for hoisting ropes & winches, drawn from HIT Srl's internal procedure library extracted from manufacturer service manuals.
General guidance only — always follow the operation and maintenance manual for your specific machine.
Winches & Gearboxes
Checking and adjusting the air gap of the skew brake
- Remove the fan cover.
- Loosen the fixing screws, screw the adjustment bushes into the magnetic section using a fixed spanner, and tighten the fixing screws again.
- Check the air gap again.
Note: Immediate risk of crushing: always use the emergency switch on the trolley when servicing the skew gear, since the emergency switch prevents the skew gear from operating during service. In normal application, the brake is practically maintenance-free; only in applications involving extremely high frictional work does the air gap S1 have to be checked at defined intervals and readjusted before the maximum air gap is exceeded. The nominal air gap S1 is 0.25 mm (minimum 0.25 mm), the maximum allowed air gap S1 is 0.6 mm, the minimum rotor thickness h is 5.6 mm, and S2 is 2 mm. Frictional surfaces must not come into contact with oil or grease.
Checking and adjusting the air gap of the trim brake (option)
- Remove the fan cover.
- Loosen the fixing screws, screw the adjustment bushes into the magnetic section using a fixed spanner, and tighten the fixing screws again.
- Check the air gap again.
Note: The trim must be secured from moving during maintenance by locking the trim wheel in place (push the locking pin through the locking holes in the frame and trim wheel); if the trim wheel is not locked, the trim may move, causing a safety hazard. The locking pin must be removed and placed in its storage before taking the trim into use, otherwise the locked trim wheel may cause damage to the trim motor. In normal application, the brake is practically maintenance-free; only in applications involving extremely high frictional work does the air gap S1 have to be checked at defined intervals. The nominal air gap S1 is 0.30 mm (minimum 0.30 mm), the maximum allowed air gap S1 is 0.75 mm, the minimum rotor thickness h is 5.6 mm, and S2 is 1.5 mm. Frictional surfaces must not come into contact with oil or grease.
Checking the tightness of fixing bolts of the hoist equipment
- Clean the screws and nuts and the area around them.
- Check every screw and nut of the relevant hoist-equipment fastening points.
- Check visually for defects: loose screws or nuts, damage, cracks, deformations, corrosion.
- For screws without a nut, use tap testing: hit the screws lightly with a tap test hammer and listen to the sound (or use an analysis instrument). If a screw is damaged or the prestress is low, the sound is lower compared to an undamaged, sufficiently tight screw.
- Replace a defective screw or nut with a new one with all the characteristics of the original. Check tightening torques from the technical data chapter. Never retighten a loose screw or nut.
Note: You must insert the trim locking pin in the locating hole before starting this maintenance.
Aligning the hoist machinery coupling on a rubber tyred gantry crane
- Adjust the correct distance of 250 mm (plus/minus 0.25 mm) between the sleeves with the motor adjustment screws, measuring between the measurement points with a tape measure and micrometer.
- Adjust the alignment of the sleeves using a square tool (maximum 0.5 mm): perform lateral adjustment with the motor adjustment screws, and perform vertical adjustment by placing shims under the motor at the mounting bolts.
- Check the alignment of the sleeves with a dial gauge: rotate the transmission shaft via the brake plate to read the result, and if necessary use the motor adjustment screws and shims to adjust.
- Check the alignment again with the dial gauge (maximum 0.4 mm), rotating the transmission shaft via the brake plate; if necessary, use the motor adjustment screws to adjust further.
- After all adjustments are complete, tighten the motor mounting bolts to a tightening torque of 629 N.m.
- Lock the motor adjustment screw lock nuts with a thread-locking compound.
- Install the shaft tube and the transmission-side lamella between the sleeves, observing the correct direction of installation of the mounting bolts.
- Install the motor-side lamella between the sleeve and the shaft tube, observing the correct direction of installation of the mounting bolts.
- Tighten the mounting bolts of the coupling to a tightening torque of 280 N.m.
Note: All adjustments related to the hoist machinery coupling are made by moving the electric motor longitudinally, laterally, or vertically.
Changing the trim gear oil on a rubber tyred gantry crane
- Move the trim with the skew-sideshift to the middle of the service platform, so the trim also functions as a wall for the platform.
- Lower the spreader to the ground.
- Lock the trim in place with the locking pin.
- Open the drain plugs and drain the oil.
- Open the filling plugs.
- After the oil has drained, close the drain plugs.
- Fill new oil to the level of the level plugs, and close the filling plugs.
Note: The trim gear oil change must be performed from the dedicated service platform: remove the grille and go down the ladder to reach it. Oil volumes are 17 litres and 2 litres for the two fill points.
Removing the skew motor on a rubber tyred gantry crane
- Remove the cover with the appropriate sleeve.
- Remove the cables connecting the motor.
- Remove the cover, and unscrew the retaining bolt.
- Unscrew the 4 bolts of the support one by one.
- Remove the motor, taking care that it does not fall.
Note: Prepare the tools: sleeve (M24, M7), wrench and screwdriver. Put a wood block under the skew motor for protection; do not lay the skew motor directly on the ground without wood blocks. Obey the safety instructions at all times: wear a safety helmet and safety shoes when working on site. Prepare a clean and safe work area. A falling motor can cause personal injury and material damage; make sure the motor is taken down safely.
Changing the lubrication oil of the hoist, trolley and skew gears
- Place a suitable container below the draining plug.
- Remove the draining plug.
- Drain the oil into the container.
- Close the draining plug once the oil has fully drained.
- Remove the oil filling plug.
- Add new oil through the oil filling plug, up to the lower edge of the oil level sight glass (maximum level); the minimum level is 4 mm below the sight glass.
- Remove the spring pin from the vent plug to activate it.
Note: Avoid skin contact with oil; use protective gloves. Do not discharge oil into the environment: use an appropriate container and deliver the oil to a hazardous waste collection point. Take care to ensure absolute cleanliness; impurities in oil cause damage to the gear. With every oil change, check the breathers for impurities and clean if necessary. Immediate risk of crushing on the skew gear: always use the emergency switch on the trolley when servicing it, since the emergency switch prevents the skew gear from operating during service. When changing the oil in the hoist gear, remove, clean and replace the magnetic plug after the oil has drained.
Calibrating the weight system on a crane winch
- Put the boom and the winch in an intermediate position, without any load.
- Select the gain using the dip-switches of the amplifier boards; both boards must be set to the same type.
- Adjust the trimmers so both load cells show the same current, checked in the I/O control panel, within the range 17-19 mA.
- In the weight calibration panel, press the Imin button; this records the current on both cells with no weight.
- Load a certified weight and press the Imax button; this records the current on both cells with the known weight.
- Check that the current is not less than 4 mA at maximum load; if it is, change the gain and repeat this procedure from the start.
Note: This procedure is used after a "Weight system not calibrated" alarm, or whenever recalibration is needed.
Wire Ropes & Drums
Replacing hoist ropes using the mini-hoist on a rubber tyred gantry crane
- Lower the spreader onto planks or another stand on the ground so that the weight is not on the twist locks or flippers.
- Remove the rain covers from the top of the hoisting drum and idlers, and place them on the service platform in the middle of the trolley.
- For ropes going straight to the drum: fasten the top of the mini-hoist to the rail behind the hoisting drum with a lifting sling; attach a hook to the mini-hoist wire rope; use a rope lock and lifting sling to fasten the hoist hook to the rope; lift the rope with the hoist so the rope-end on the drum becomes loose; remove all fasteners holding the rope-end on the drum; lower the rope to the ground with the mini-hoist; repeat for the other rope going straight to the drum.
- For ropes fastened to the skew: remove the rope length adjustment screw and the pocket and hoist rope-end from the skew; fasten the top of the mini-hoist to the rail next to the idler; remove the mini-hoist hook; screw the installation bar to the end of the adjustment screw on the skew; fasten the bar to the mini-hoist wire with the shackle; lift the adjustment screw and rope slightly with the mini-hoist; open and remove the mounting nut; lower the rope to the ground with the mini-hoist; repeat for the other rope fastened to the same skew and to both ropes fastened to the other skew.
- If the machine has a trim: put the trim locking pin through the trim wheel to prevent movement during installation (if the locking pin is not used, the trim may move and cause injury); use a rope lock and lifting sling to fasten the mini-hoist wire and hook to the hoist rope at the service platform level; move the skew so the mini-hoist wire is straight down; slightly lift the hoist rope; once the rope on the trim is loose, remove the locking pin and mounting bolt; dismantle the pocket at the rope-end so the rope can fit through the trim; lower the rope to the ground; repeat for the other rope on the trim.
- Install a new rope: install the pocket at the end of the new rope on the ground and tighten it; fasten the detached adjustment screw to the pocket; fasten the mini-hoist to the trolley rail and remove the hook; lower the hoist wire rope-end to the ground through the hole on the skew; use the installation bar and shackle to fasten the ground assembly to the wire rope; lift the adjustment screw up through the skew hole, making sure the twist-prevention pin goes into the slot on the adjustment screw; thread and lock the mounting nut, checking that a spring washer sits under the nut and some pin threads remain visible; repeat for the other rope-ends fastened to the skews.
- If the machine has a trim: thread the rope end through the trim, pull it to the ground and install the pocket there, without pre-fastening the pocket before threading; pull the free end of the rope by hand so the other rope-end and pocket rise to the trim, slowing down with an auxiliary rope so it does not rise too fast; once the pocket is in place in the trim, install the mounting bolt and locking pin; detach the auxiliary rope; repeat for the other trim rope.
- Thread the ropes through the idlers of the spreader or headblock (idlers are on the headblock if the machine has one, otherwise on the spreader), as shown in the rope lay-out figure.
- Install the rope-ends to the drum: fasten all four rope-ends to the drum with one small fastener; check the balance; rotate the drum three rounds and then fasten the ropes permanently with larger fasteners. For ropes that come straight to the drum, use a lifting sling to fasten the mini-hoist to the rail behind the drum, fasten the mini-hoist wire to the hoist rope leaving 1.5 metres of rope-end free, lift the rope up to the drum, and fasten the end with a small fastener without tightening it fully. For ropes that come through an idler, attach a cable stocking to the hoist rope-end, attach the mini-hoist wire to the cable stocking with a shackle, pull the rope through the idler to the drum (slightly past the drum so the cable stocking does not remain between fasteners), fasten with a large fastener at the last fastening point, detach the mini-hoist and cable stocking, then fasten the rope-end with a small fastener at the correct position and remove the large fastener so the rope takes its correct place on the drum; repeat for the other rope coming through the idler.
- Fine-adjust the spreader balance with the adjustment screws on the skews, and lubricate the ropes.
Note: These instructions apply to machines both with and without a trim. Always use a safety harness when working on the crane outside the safety rails. Note that the ropes are not all the same length: length depends on whether a rope goes straight to the drum or through an idler, and whether the machine has a trim.
Replacing hoist ropes using the service lift on a rubber tyred gantry crane
- Lower the spreader onto planks or another stand on the ground so that the weight is not on the twist locks or flippers.
- Remove the rain covers from the top of the hoisting drum and idlers, and place them on the service platform in the middle of the trolley.
- For ropes that go to the drum through the idlers: use a rope lock and lifting sling to fasten the service lift chain to the hoist rope; lift the rope with the lift so the rope-end on the drum becomes loose; remove all fasteners holding the rope-end on the drum, and lower the rope to the ground.
- If the machine has a trim: lock the trim with the locking pin through the trim wheel to prevent movement (if not used, the trim may move and cause injury; after replacement the locking pin must be removed from the centre hole, otherwise it can damage the trim motor); attach a hook to the end of the service lift chain and thread it through the trolley next to the other trim rope; use a rope lock and lifting sling to fasten the chain to the hoist rope at the trim service platform level; lift the hoist rope a few inches; once the rope on the trim is loose, remove the locking pin and mounting pin from the pocket; dismantle the pocket so the rope can fit through the trim; lower the old rope to the ground; repeat for the other trim rope.
- For ropes that go straight to the drum: use a rope lock and lifting sling to fasten the service lift chain to the hoist rope; lift the rope so the rope-end on the drum becomes loose; remove all fasteners on the drum and lower the rope to the ground; repeat for the other rope going straight to the drum.
- For ropes fastened to the skew: screw the installation bar to the end of the adjusting screw on the skew and lock it with the mounting nut; remove the hook from the service lift chain and attach the chain to the installation bar with the shackle; lift the adjusting screw and rope slightly with the lift; open and unscrew the mounting nut; lower the rope to the ground with the lift (through the skew and the nut); repeat for the other rope fastened to the same skew and to both ropes on the other skew.
- Install a new rope: install the pocket at the end of the new rope on the ground and tighten it; fasten the detached adjustment screw to the pocket; remove the hook from the chain and lower the chain to the ground through the hole on the skew and the mounting nut (the nut cannot be installed later); fasten the ground assembly to the chain with the installation bar and shackle; lift the adjustment screw up through the skew hole and nut, checking that the twist-prevention pin goes into its slot as the rope nears the top; thread and lock the mounting nut, checking that a spring washer sits under it.
- If the machine has a trim: lower the service lift chain to the ground through the trolley; use a rope lock and lifting sling to fasten the chain to the hoist rope leaving 5 metres free; lift the rope and thread it through the trim; fasten an auxiliary rope to the end of the hoist rope, leaving enough free rope to attach the pocket; lock the other end of the hoist rope to a fixed object on the ground to prevent it rising to the trim during pocket installation; detach the service lift chain (keeping the rope in place with the auxiliary rope); pull the rope-end to the ground with the auxiliary rope and install the pocket; pull the other end of the rope by hand so the rope-end with the pocket rises to the trim, install the mounting bolt and locking pin, then detach the auxiliary rope; repeat for the other trim rope.
- Thread the ropes through the idlers of the spreader or headblock (idlers are on the headblock if the machine has one, otherwise on the spreader), as shown in the rope lay-out figure.
- Install the rope-ends to the drum: fasten all four rope-ends to the drum with one small fastener; check the balance; rotate the drum three rounds and then fasten the ropes permanently with larger fasteners. For ropes that come straight to the drum, lower the service lift chain through the trolley and fasten it to the rope-end first from the idler groove (the only way it fits through the hole). For ropes that come through an idler, lower the service lift chain next to the idler groove, fasten it to the hoist rope leaving 7 metres of rope-end free, attach an auxiliary rope reaching from the trolley to the ground, lift the rope with the service lift (stopping before it reaches the trolley), pull the rope-end with the auxiliary rope up through the idler groove, lift the rope further with the service lift, thread it through the idler to the drum and fasten with one small fastener (without over-tightening, to avoid bending the fastener bolt); detach the service lift chain from the hoist rope.
- Fine-adjust the spreader balance with the adjustment screws on the skews, and lubricate the ropes.
Note: These instructions apply to machines both with and without a trim. Always use a safety harness when working on the machine outside the safety rails. Note that the ropes are not all the same length: length depends on whether a rope goes straight to the drum or through an idler, and whether the machine has a trim.
Calibrating the load cells using the touch panel on a rubber tyred gantry crane (electronic control system)
- Press the calibration button in the crane status display to open the force sensor calibration screen.
- Lower the spreader onto the test container until the ropes are loose; the bypass switch may be needed. The sensors-zeroed indicator turns green when the ropes are loose enough.
- Enter the weight of the test container in the force sensor calibration screen.
- Close the twistlocks.
Note: Use a test container that gives an equal load on all ropes (not an unbalanced test container); the weight should be as close as possible to the rated load.
Introducing a new rope into a rope grab's reeving system
- Introduce the served rope end through the bell-mouth or the rope guide pulleys into the rope pulleys of the traverse below.
- Pull the ropes over the top pulleys and fasten them to the compensating levers: in the traverse for triple reeving; in the head on top for quadruple reeving; or in the traverse at the bottom for quintuple reeving.
- For ropes of 30 mm diameter or more, introduce them using a thin leading rope of about 8 mm, joined to the main rope with a cable grip; a crane or a motor tractor can be used to pull the rope through.
Note: A rope supplied on a ring must be rolled out on the ground to avoid twisting; never take the rope off the ring laterally. The ground should be as clean as possible, to prevent dirt from adhering to the rope's lubricant.
Replacing the drum bearing pedestal on a quayside container crane
- Lower the spreader to the ground and slacken the main hoist ropes (or position the boom level and slacken the boom hoist ropes).
- Lock out the crane's motion for the affected drives by performing the lock-out and tag-out procedure.
- Disconnect the coupling between the drum and the rotary limit switch, and use slings and softeners to connect the drum to the service crane.
- Tie off each of the ropes in the machinery house to remove the rope load from the drum, slackening enough rope that the drum can be moved slightly.
- Remove the bearing pedestal end cover nuts.
- Unfasten the stud nuts and screws.
- Remove the bearing and end cover.
- Clean the drum shaft and bearing pedestal with solvent; replace the shaft seals if necessary.
- Install a new bearing.
- Reassemble the bearing pedestal in the reverse order to the steps above.
- Realign the drum couplings per the alignment criteria, and verify the drum-mounted rotary limit switch setting and alignment.
- Remove the lock-out and tag-out devices, and pre-operate the crane; start up and monitor it to verify operation before returning it to service.
Note: Personnel involved in this replacement must be familiar with the component structure, control the operating steps, and be able to cope with unexpected events. Before working, set down the procedure in detail, hold a pre-work meeting, adopt safety precautions, and appoint someone responsible for safety coordination. There is danger of tripping, a pinch hazard, and a requirement to keep away from suspended loads.
Inspecting a mobile harbour crane's hoisting rope and applying the replacement criteria
- Check the ropes visually from the machinery house and from the tower upper landing, executing winch lifting/lowering operations from ground with the block at ground to verify the final part.
- To check wear, lower the boom to the ground and check the ropes at ground level, from the machinery house, and from the tower head landing.
- Check the ropes along their entire length, with particular attention to: the connections at both ends; the parts that pass through the hook block or around the pulleys, especially where the rope contacts the pulleys under load; the part that passes around the compensation pulleys; all parts that rub against external structures and are subject to abrasion; and the internal part of the rope, for corrosion and fatigue.
- Assess, individually and cumulatively, the following factors to decide whether the rope must be replaced: the nature and number of broken wires; broken wires at end connections; localised concentrations of broken wires; broken strands; reduction of rope diameter due to core deterioration; loss of elasticity; external and internal wear; external and internal corrosion; deformation; and damage due to heat or a voltaic arc.
- Before installing a new rope, make sure it has the same characteristics as the old one, and check that the races on the pulleys and winch drum have not been worn or deformed by the passage of the old rope.
Note: Ropes are special steel wire ropes with high breaking strength, considered an element subject to wear that must be replaced when inspection reveals deterioration reducing its original strength to the point where further use would constitute a risk. Wear checking is executed periodically, and also every time an accident occurs or when a rope starts work again after being dismantled and re-assembled. Do not touch ropes with bare hands.
Chains & Sheaves
Adjusting the trolley chains on a rubber tyred gantry crane
- Drive the trolley to the gate end.
- Lock the trolley with the locking device.
- Measure the distance between the trolley bumpers and end stop plates, and make sure it is equal on both sides within the tolerance.
- Open the trolley brake manually.
- Rotate the propeller shaft by hand until the chains are tight.
- Hold the tension with the brake disk by closing the brake.
- Tighten the nut until the chain is tight; tighten the left chain from the walking platform and the right chain from the service hatch.
- Open the locking device.
Note: Adjust the chain so that the measurement between the bumpers and the end plates is equal on both sides (tolerance plus/minus 1 cm).
Replacing a main hoist pulley (sheave) on a quayside container crane
- Move the trolley to the backreach so the sheaves to be replaced are accessible with the outside service crane at backreach.
- Lower the headblock to the ground and slacken the main hoist ropes.
- Lock out the crane's hoist and trolley motions by performing the lock-out and tag-out procedure.
- Loosen the 4 bolts and pin connecting the shaft upper seats to the trolley frame structure.
- Use two 0.5 t chain hoists to remove the ropes from the sheaves to be replaced.
- Remove the 2 shaft upper seats and lift the sheave assembly; once the ropes are clear of the sheaves, place a timber across the opening where the sheaves were and lower the rope wire onto the timber, then pull the bridge toward the landside so the sheave assembly can be accessed by the electric hoist on the jib.
- Lower the sheave assembly to the ground and repair damaged sheave assembly parts in a workshop.
- Tap out the shaft, without damaging the lubrication hole.
- Suspend the shaft away with the service crane, in the workshop.
- Separate the two pulleys with the service crane.
- After unfastening the pulley, remove the bolts on the trouble pulley's end cover.
- Pull the upper half bearing out with a bearing puller.
- Pull out the dummy plates.
- Turn the pulley over, and pull out the other bearing the same way.
- Reassemble the pulley by reversing this procedure.
Note: There are 18 main hoist pulleys in total, fitted at the trolley frame, headblock and girder end. The nylon pulley at the boom end, used only for rope re-reeving, does not need replacing; this procedure covers the 16 forged pulleys at the other positions. Before replacement, carefully study the drawings and understand the pulley's construction.
Other Hoisting Ropes & Winches procedures
Jacking up and changing a trolley wheel on a rubber tyred gantry crane
- Remove the falling prevention clamps.
- Jack up the wheel below the trolley box-frame.
- When the wheel is lifted off the rail, place a support between the rail and the trolley box-frame.
- Remove the end plate and the buffer.
- Remove the axle of the wheel.
- Roll the wheel off along the rail.
Note: Use a jack with a lifting capacity of 10-20 tons. The wheel axle weighs 40 kg (88 lb); the wheel itself weighs 148 kg (326 lb). Make sure there is no danger in the service environment that could endanger personnel.
Checking the tightness of fixing bolts of the trolley
- Clean the screws and nuts and the area around them.
- Check every screw and nut of the relevant trolley fastening points.
- Check visually for defects: loose screws or nuts, damage, cracks, deformations, corrosion.
- For screws without a nut, use tap testing: hit the screws lightly with a tap test hammer and listen to the sound (or use an analysis instrument). If a screw is damaged or the prestress is low, the sound is lower compared to an undamaged, sufficiently tight screw.
- Replace a defective screw or nut with a new one with all the characteristics of the original. Check tightening torques from the technical data chapter. Never retighten a loose screw or nut.
Looking for general maintenance tips and checklists? See Hoisting, Ropes & Winches.